A Study on Enhancing the Accuracy of Wave Prediction Models Through SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore) Model Sensitivity Experiments: Focusing on Wind Input and Whitecapping Dissipation

Accurate wave prediction in coastal waters is essential for marine safety and engineering, yet it is significantly influenced by uncertainties in wind forcing and dissipation parameterization. This study evaluates the sensitivity of the SWAN model around the Korean Peninsula using 2021 data from 138 observation stations. To address structural biases in wind fields, the Drag Coefficient Scaling Factor (CDFAC) was implemented alongside the Komen and ST6 physics packages. While the Komen scheme provided stable performance under normal conditions, the ST6 + CDFAC configuration exhibited superior physical consistency during extreme events. Notably, applying CDFAC to the ST6 package reduced the high-wave (Hs > 3 m) RMSE by approximately 32.7%, decreasing from 0.52 m to 0.35 m. Bathymetric stratified analysis further confirmed that the ST6 scheme maintains robust performance in offshore and deep-water regions (depth > 50 m), achieving a correlation of 0.94 and an RMSE of 0.20 m. This is attributed to ST6’s frequency-dependent saturation approach, which effectively decouples wind-sea and swell components in environments where whitecapping dissipation is the governing energy sink. In contrast, improvements in coastal waters (depth < 50 m) were moderated by topographical dissipation mechanisms such as bottom friction and depth-induced breaking. These findings demonstrate that integrating wind input bias correction with frequency-dependent dissipation physics is vital for reliable wave forecasting and coastal disaster mitigation.

Authors

Institutions

Publication Details

Journal
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering
Published
2026-02-26
DOI
https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse14050435
Primary Topic
Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
Type
article
Field-Weighted Citation Impact
0.00

Funders

Controls
|||
ALL TIME
JAN
FEB
MAR
APR
MAY
JUN
JUL
AUG
SEP
OCT
article

A Study on Enhancing the Accuracy of Wave Prediction Models Through SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore) Model Sensitivity Experiments: Focusing on Wind Input and Whitecapping Dissipation

Ho-Sik Eum, Jong-Jip Park
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering
Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
article

A Study on Enhancing the Accuracy of Wave Prediction Models Through SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore) Model Sensitivity Experiments: Focusing on Wind Input and Whitecapping Dissipation

Ho-Sik Eum, Jong-Jip Park
article en

Abstract

Accurate wave prediction in coastal waters is essential for marine safety and engineering, yet it is significantly influenced by uncertainties in wind forcing and dissipation parameterization. This study evaluates the sensitivity of the SWAN model around the Korean Peninsula using 2021 data from 138 observation stations. To address structural biases in wind fields, the Drag Coefficient Scaling Factor (CDFAC) was implemented alongside the Komen and ST6 physics packages. While the Komen scheme provided stable performance under normal conditions, the ST6 + CDFAC configuration exhibited superior physical consistency during extreme events. Notably, applying CDFAC to the ST6 package reduced the high-wave (Hs > 3 m) RMSE by approximately 32.7%, decreasing from 0.52 m to 0.35 m. Bathymetric stratified analysis further confirmed that the ST6 scheme maintains robust performance in offshore and deep-water regions (depth > 50 m), achieving a correlation of 0.94 and an RMSE of 0.20 m. This is attributed to ST6’s frequency-dependent saturation approach, which effectively decouples wind-sea and swell components in environments where whitecapping dissipation is the governing energy sink. In contrast, improvements in coastal waters (depth < 50 m) were moderated by topographical dissipation mechanisms such as bottom friction and depth-induced breaking. These findings demonstrate that integrating wind input bias correction with frequency-dependent dissipation physics is vital for reliable wave forecasting and coastal disaster mitigation.

Journal of Marine Science and EngineeringVol. 14(5)
LSIS (South Korea) (KR)
Nuclear Safety and Security Commission
Life below water
Openalex Percentile: Top 50%
Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
AI Navigator

Ask Laika to Summarize, Analyze, and Connect papers live on the map.

Summarize Papers & Methodologies

Extract key findings, datasets, and comparative methods across publications.

Benchmark Rankings & Visual Analytics

Rank top research institutions, authors, funders, topics, and journals by Field-Weighted Citation Impact (FWCI) and paper volume with instant charts.

Connect Distant Disciplines

Bridge topological clusters on the map to find hidden collaborative intersections.