A new breaker index introducing a two-phase nearshore dissipation condition

The breaker index ( γ ), which defines the breaker height-to-depth ratio, is recognized as a critical parameter for energy dissipation in nearshore wave models. Existing formulae often struggle with the complex, non-monotonic dependence of γ on hydrodynamic and bathymetric conditions. In this study, a new physics-based formula for γ , is introduced. The formula is derived from various extensive laboratory and field datasets. The analysis reveals a two-phase breaking behavior governed by a dynamic relative depth threshold, as a function of offshore wave steepness ( s o ). For relative depths below this threshold, γ variation exhibits an inverse trend compared to γ values for relative depths higher than this threshold, as a function of s o . Conventional models have not captured these dominant trends. The newly proposed formula, constructed as a piecewise linear function, explicitly models this conditional behavior. The formula's capability is confirmed against two independent field and laboratory validation datasets. The statistical assessment indicates a significant improvement of the breaker wave estimation in the surf-zone, applying the new formula. This result suggests that the accurate prediction of γ requires a conditional formulation accounting for the complex influences of relative depth and offshore steepness. • A new physics-based formula was developed for the breaker index ( γ ). • Non-monotonic, dual-regime dependency of γ on relative depth ( k p d ) was confirmed. • A dynamic breaking threshold ( k p d Thr ) with linear dependence on offshore steepness ( s o ) was shown. • An inverse behavior of γ depending on k p d values relative to a dynamic threshold. • Performance of the new formula outperformed previously established formulae.

Authors

Institutions

Publication Details

Journal
Ocean Engineering
Published
2026-02-25
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.oceaneng.2026.124742
Primary Topic
Wave and Wind Energy Systems
Type
article
Field-Weighted Citation Impact
0.00
Controls
|||
ALL TIME
JAN
FEB
MAR
APR
MAY
JUN
JUL
AUG
SEP
OCT
article

A new breaker index introducing a two-phase nearshore dissipation condition

Seyed Ali Seyedalipour, Seyed Masoud Mahmoudof, Seyed Mostafa Siadatmousavi
Ocean Engineering
Wave and Wind Energy Systems
article

A new breaker index introducing a two-phase nearshore dissipation condition

Seyed Ali Seyedalipour, Seyed Masoud Mahmoudof, Seyed Mostafa Siadatmousavi
article en

Abstract

The breaker index ( γ ), which defines the breaker height-to-depth ratio, is recognized as a critical parameter for energy dissipation in nearshore wave models. Existing formulae often struggle with the complex, non-monotonic dependence of γ on hydrodynamic and bathymetric conditions. In this study, a new physics-based formula for γ , is introduced. The formula is derived from various extensive laboratory and field datasets. The analysis reveals a two-phase breaking behavior governed by a dynamic relative depth threshold, as a function of offshore wave steepness ( s o ). For relative depths below this threshold, γ variation exhibits an inverse trend compared to γ values for relative depths higher than this threshold, as a function of s o . Conventional models have not captured these dominant trends. The newly proposed formula, constructed as a piecewise linear function, explicitly models this conditional behavior. The formula's capability is confirmed against two independent field and laboratory validation datasets. The statistical assessment indicates a significant improvement of the breaker wave estimation in the surf-zone, applying the new formula. This result suggests that the accurate prediction of γ requires a conditional formulation accounting for the complex influences of relative depth and offshore steepness. • A new physics-based formula was developed for the breaker index ( γ ). • Non-monotonic, dual-regime dependency of γ on relative depth ( k p d ) was confirmed. • A dynamic breaking threshold ( k p d Thr ) with linear dependence on offshore steepness ( s o ) was shown. • An inverse behavior of γ depending on k p d values relative to a dynamic threshold. • Performance of the new formula outperformed previously established formulae.

Ocean EngineeringVol. 353
Iranian National Institute for Oceanography and Atmospheric Science (IR), Iran University of Science and Technology (IR)
Openalex Percentile: Top 46%
Wave and Wind Energy Systems
AI Navigator

Ask Laika to Summarize, Analyze, and Connect papers live on the map.

Summarize Papers & Methodologies

Extract key findings, datasets, and comparative methods across publications.

Benchmark Rankings & Visual Analytics

Rank top research institutions, authors, funders, topics, and journals by Field-Weighted Citation Impact (FWCI) and paper volume with instant charts.

Connect Distant Disciplines

Bridge topological clusters on the map to find hidden collaborative intersections.