Phytochemical Screening and Physicochemical Properties of Oil Extract of Usnea barbata L. F.H.Wigg from Călimani Mountains, Romania

Green cosmetics are primarily based on plant-derived ingredients and use sustainable biotechnological tools for their preparation. The present research aimed to investigate the <i>Usnea barbata</i> (<i>U. barbata</i>) extract in Jojoba oil (JO) enriched with 5% Peppermint oil (PEO) and 10% Vitamin E, as a potential natural product for skin applications. The <i>U. barbata</i> oil extract (UBPJO) was obtained through cold maceration. Phytochemical screening was performed using Gas Chromatography/Mass Spectrometry (GC-MS), Folin-Ciocalteu method, and Graphite-Furnace Atomic Absorption Spectrophotometry (GFAAS). Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR) and Atomic Force Microscopy (AFM) were used to evaluate the physicochemical properties. Then, rheological characteristics and oxidation stability (measured as the time to reach the oxidation starting point, induction period (IP)) of both oil samples (UBPJO and oil mixture alone (PJO) were investigated. Total phenolic content (TPC) in UBPJO was 2.5 times higher than in PJO (<i>p</i> < 0.05), while heavy metal levels (As and Pb) were slightly higher (<i>p</i> > 0.05). UBPJO has higher shear stress, viscosity, and spreadability than PJO, but the differences are not significant (<i>p</i> > 0.05). Finally, IP measurements indicated appreciable oxidative stability (UBPJO vs. PJO: 153.02 h vs. 137.35 h, <i>p</i> > 0.05). The phytochemical composition and physicochemical properties support the inclusion of UBPJO in various skincare formulations.

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Journal
International Journal of Molecular Sciences
Published
2026-02-16
DOI
https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms27041903
Primary Topic
Nuts composition and effects
Type
article
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article

Phytochemical Screening and Physicochemical Properties of Oil Extract of Usnea barbata L. F.H.Wigg from Călimani Mountains, Romania

Violeta Popovici, Mihai Anastasescu, Andreea Roxana Ungureanu, Claudia Maria Guțu et al.
International Journal of Molecular Sciences
Nuts composition and effects
article

Phytochemical Screening and Physicochemical Properties of Oil Extract of Usnea barbata L. F.H.Wigg from Călimani Mountains, Romania

Violeta Popovici, Mihai Anastasescu, Andreea Roxana Ungureanu, Claudia Maria Guțu, Denisa Ioana Udeanu, Emma Adriana Ozon, Adina Magdalena Musuc, Daniela Luiza Baconi, Monica HĂNCIANU, Oana Cioancă, Adrian Florin Spac, Ioana Cristina Marinas, Mihaela Afrodita Dan
article en

Abstract

Green cosmetics are primarily based on plant-derived ingredients and use sustainable biotechnological tools for their preparation. The present research aimed to investigate the <i>Usnea barbata</i> (<i>U. barbata</i>) extract in Jojoba oil (JO) enriched with 5% Peppermint oil (PEO) and 10% Vitamin E, as a potential natural product for skin applications. The <i>U. barbata</i> oil extract (UBPJO) was obtained through cold maceration. Phytochemical screening was performed using Gas Chromatography/Mass Spectrometry (GC-MS), Folin-Ciocalteu method, and Graphite-Furnace Atomic Absorption Spectrophotometry (GFAAS). Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR) and Atomic Force Microscopy (AFM) were used to evaluate the physicochemical properties. Then, rheological characteristics and oxidation stability (measured as the time to reach the oxidation starting point, induction period (IP)) of both oil samples (UBPJO and oil mixture alone (PJO) were investigated. Total phenolic content (TPC) in UBPJO was 2.5 times higher than in PJO (<i>p</i> < 0.05), while heavy metal levels (As and Pb) were slightly higher (<i>p</i> > 0.05). UBPJO has higher shear stress, viscosity, and spreadability than PJO, but the differences are not significant (<i>p</i> > 0.05). Finally, IP measurements indicated appreciable oxidative stability (UBPJO vs. PJO: 153.02 h vs. 137.35 h, <i>p</i> > 0.05). The phytochemical composition and physicochemical properties support the inclusion of UBPJO in various skincare formulations.

International Journal of Molecular SciencesVol. 27(4)
National Institute of Economic Research (SE), University of Bucharest (RO), Carol Davila University of Medicine and Pharmacy (RO), Grigore T. Popa University of Medicine and Pharmacy (RO), Institute for Economic Research (SI), Romanian Academy (RO)
Responsible consumption and production
Openalex Percentile: Top 53%
Nuts composition and effects
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