Why Do Safer Nail Product Alternatives Remain Out of Reach?

In our article “The Safety of Nail Products: Health Threats in the Nail Industry” previously published in the International Journal of Dermatology, we described the harmful effects of ingredients commonly found in nail products and the lack of regulation that perpetuates their use. Nail polish typically contains a solvent, film-forming polymers, resins, plasticizers, suspending agents, and pigments or dyes [1]. The three most well-known toxic chemicals in nail products are toluene, formaldehyde, and dibutyl phthalate (DnBP), which together have been termed the “toxic trio” [2]. Methyl methacrylate (MMA) is another harmful nail product ingredient aside from the toxic trio [1]. Despite well-documented risks, regulation of cosmetic products in the United States remains minimal. The United States Food and Drug Administration (FDA) relies heavily on the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel, an industry-funded body that creates conflicts of interest [1]. The FDA must prove that an ingredient is harmful in order for it to be banned, which differs from the guidelines for drugs. Also, ingredient lists are only mandated for retail products sold directly to consumers, not for bulk formulations sold to salons. Furthermore, phthalates may be legally hidden under the vague designation of “fragrance” [2]. This patchwork of weak requirements and labeling loopholes allows hazardous products to remain widely available. There are, however, safer alternatives that do exist and are feasible. For example, alternatives to phthalates include di(ethylhexyl) terephthalate (DEHT) and diisononyl cyclohexane-1,2-dicarboxylate, which have been shown not to cause irritation or sensitization. Water can act as a substitute for toluene as a solvent in nail products [3]. Ethyl methacrylate can also replace MMA as a safer alternative [4]. Safer alternatives do exist, but they can be limited due to cost. However, these safer alternatives do not significantly alter the final nail art. The hurdle for a safer nail industry is not necessarily the availability of safer options. It is the lack of strong regulations and enforcement. Multiple studies have shown that even products labeled as “3-Free” or “5-Free” often still contain measurable concentrations of the very ingredients they claim to exclude [5]. Without independent testing, manufacturers can continue to market unsafe products under misleading labels. This mirrors the FDA's reactive stance that actions may only be taken once harm is caused. Additionally, there is precedent for the removal of toxic ingredients, specifically with MMA, which is a monomer that can affect the skin, lungs, reproductive organs, and others. The use of MMA has been restricted due to causing contact dermatitis [1]. The use of MMA has been technically banned in the United States and Europe [1], which shows this regulation is possible, but does not exist for the toxic trio. The way forward requires shifting from voluntary changes to mandatory substitution and accurate disclosure. Regulators should consider enforcing bans on MMA and extending prohibitions to the toxic trio. Ingredient lists should be required for all products, including those sold wholesale to salons, and independent audits must confirm labeling accuracy. Safer substitutes should not be treated as premium options but as the required baseline for industry practice. In conclusion, the continued use of harmful chemicals in nail products is not a matter of lacking alternatives but of lacking oversight. The toxic trio and MMA remain in circulation because regulatory bodies permit industry self-policing and weak enforcement. Dermatologists, occupational health advocates, and policymakers must work together to demand rigorous oversight, transparent labeling, and mandatory substitution with safer alternatives. The tools for change already exist, but no substantial progress will occur without enforcement. The authors have nothing to report. The authors declare no conflicts of interest. The authors have nothing to report.