Revaluation of Estonian local sheep wool – impact of different wool types on textile material properties

The use of local sheep wool in Estonia – and consequently, sheep farming – has declined since the mid-20th century due to the increased availability of synthetic fibres and the import of finer, higher-quality wool. Nevertheless, it is possible to produce high-quality textiles from the more uneven local wool, indicating the need to revalue Estonian local wool and the textiles produced from it. There is limited research on Estonian local sheep wool (Estonian Darkhead, Estonian Whitehead, Kihnu Native sheep) fibre properties and no data on the combined effect of these fibre properties on textile material properties in various stages of textile production, such as yarn, knitted material, and knitted felted material. Therefore, specific fibre properties – including fibre length, linear density, diameter, cuticle scale height, and scale frequency – were analysed, and their combined effects on yarn, knitted material, and knitted felted material properties were evaluated. For comparison, wool from locally raised Mérinos d’Arles sheep was also analysed. The results showed that the fibres from the wool of Estonian breeds were more uneven, coarser, and longer, with higher linear density and lower cuticle scale frequency. However, yarns produced from these fibres demonstrated greater tensile properties. Material properties were influenced both by fibre and yarn properties.