Mapping masculinities: Tracing the labour, (sub)cultural style and travels of Hull’s trawlermen

Hull trawlermen from the mid-twentieth century created a distinctive dress code when at leisure belonging only to their workforce. It travelled with their occupation. The ‘shore suit’, a distinct (sub)cultural regional style, set them apart from other men in their community and beyond. Bold in appearance with specific features characterized by pastel shades, wide waistbands, half-moon pockets and pleated backs, the shore suit contributed to this collective uniformity for at least 25 years. The trawlermen went to sea in their made-to-measure suits, prepared in case opportunities arose to land abroad. The trawlers were rarely scheduled to enter any other port than Hull; however, these significant landings became an integral part of their narratives, experiences and (mis)-adventures. The men made the most of these trips, including potentially inspiring others of the same professional background to wear outlandish dress. This article discusses the geographical spaces of the Hull trawlermen and the potential cultural drivers influencing their choice of attire. Ports in the United Kingdom and those in Norway, Faroe Islands and Iceland were major points of disembarkation; for this article, Hull and Iceland will be used as a case study. The island emerged as a centre of innovative fashion, influenced by diverse international trends that impacted the population and the trawlermen visiting for short periods of time. Oral history was the core method for data collection from those who wore, witnessed or were a part of creating the shore suits. Findings offer new insight into labour mobility and locations of menswear related to a particular workforce and its ability to shape dress of this geographically disparate group of men.

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Publication Details

Journal
Critical Studies in Men’s Fashion
Published
2025-12-01
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1386/csmf_00098_1
Primary Topic
Fashion and Cultural Textiles
Type
article
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article

Mapping masculinities: Tracing the labour, (sub)cultural style and travels of Hull’s trawlermen

Claire Day
Critical Studies in Men’s Fashion
Fashion and Cultural Textiles
article

Mapping masculinities: Tracing the labour, (sub)cultural style and travels of Hull’s trawlermen

Claire Day
article en

Abstract

Hull trawlermen from the mid-twentieth century created a distinctive dress code when at leisure belonging only to their workforce. It travelled with their occupation. The ‘shore suit’, a distinct (sub)cultural regional style, set them apart from other men in their community and beyond. Bold in appearance with specific features characterized by pastel shades, wide waistbands, half-moon pockets and pleated backs, the shore suit contributed to this collective uniformity for at least 25 years. The trawlermen went to sea in their made-to-measure suits, prepared in case opportunities arose to land abroad. The trawlers were rarely scheduled to enter any other port than Hull; however, these significant landings became an integral part of their narratives, experiences and (mis)-adventures. The men made the most of these trips, including potentially inspiring others of the same professional background to wear outlandish dress. This article discusses the geographical spaces of the Hull trawlermen and the potential cultural drivers influencing their choice of attire. Ports in the United Kingdom and those in Norway, Faroe Islands and Iceland were major points of disembarkation; for this article, Hull and Iceland will be used as a case study. The island emerged as a centre of innovative fashion, influenced by diverse international trends that impacted the population and the trawlermen visiting for short periods of time. Oral history was the core method for data collection from those who wore, witnessed or were a part of creating the shore suits. Findings offer new insight into labour mobility and locations of menswear related to a particular workforce and its ability to shape dress of this geographically disparate group of men.

Critical Studies in Men’s FashionVol. 12(1)
Coventry University (GB)
Decent work and economic growth
Openalex Percentile: Top 14%
Fashion and Cultural Textiles
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Mapping masculinities: Tracing the labour, (sub)cultural style and travels of Hull’s trawlermen — Claire Day · Critical Studies in Men’s Fashion (2025) | TGRS Research Map | TGRS