A Study of the Jeolrip (Felt Hat) of the Joseon Dynasty

This study examines the origins, wearing practices, and typological characteristics of the jeolrip (戰笠) during the Joseon dynasty. Originating from felt hats commonly worn by northern nomadic peoples, the jeolrip was widely adopted in Korea during the Goryeo period under strong Mongol (Yuan) influence. This custom persisted into the Joseon period, when successive wars in the 17th century contributed to its broader use as a men’s hat, particularly consolidating its role as military headgear. Although no extant records directly describe the early Joseon jeolrip, historical sources reference ornaments, such as jeongja (top ornaments) and hat strings, suggesting that its form closely resembles later examples. By the late Joseon period, the jeolrip had diversified according to materials and decorations. Commoners typically wore wool or mixed-fur hats known as beonggeoji, whereas military officials wore elaborately adorned an-ollim beonggeoji, constructed from silk-covered felt and decorated with jeongja, peacock feathers, sangmo (tassels), and paeyeong (ornamental pendants). During the 17th and 18th centuries, horsehair jeolrip gained popularity, while bamboo-woven jeolrip became fashionable among upper-class men in the 19th century. The hongjeolrip (red jeolrip), often worn by noeja (military officials), features a central dragon-shaped ornament, a design believed to have originated from the Ming dynasty. This study differs from previous research by systematically categorizing jeolrip types according to materials and decorative features and substantiating each classification with historical evidence. These findings contribute to a broader and more nuanced understanding of traditional Korean headgear within the context of Korean costume history.