Assessing machine-learning-based weather forcing in significant wave height prediction
Abstract This study evaluates Pangu-Weather, a machine-learning-based weather prediction (MLWP) model, for its ability to reduce errors in numerical predictions of significant wave height (SWH). SWH predictions from the SWAN wave model were driven by 10 m wind fields from Pangu-Weather, and error assessments were conducted at 50 observation stations along the Japanese coast over 52 seven-day periods in 2022. For comparison, meteorological forcing from the Weather Research and Forecasting (WRF) numerical weather prediction (NWP) model was also applied. When used as meteorological forcing, Pangu-Weather performed comparably to WRF in most cases, but showed a clear advantage for observed SWH < 1.0 m. In contrast, WRF showed better performance for observed SWH ≥ 1.0 m. This is partly because Pangu-Weather often struggles to predict severe meteorological events (e.g., typhoons and bomb cyclones) and their associated SWH. These findings, within the scope of this study, indicate that MLWP forcing has the potential to serve as an alternative to NWP for SWH prediction, while further work is needed to extend this skill to rarer high-impact events.
Authors
- Tomoki SHIRAI
- Taro ARIKAWA (ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-7115-2760)
- Tatsumi Harada
- Yurie ITAGAKI
- Tomoya SHIBAYAMA
- Masashi Tanaka
- Fuuki Ogawa
Institutions
- Japan Society for the Promotion of Science (JP)
- Tetra Corporation (United States) (US)
- Penta-Ocean Construction (Japan) (JP)
- Chuo University (JP)
Publication Details
- Journal
- Geoscience Letters
- Published
- 2026-01-06
- DOI
- https://doi.org/10.1186/s40562-025-00455-w
- Primary Topic
- Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
- Type
- article
- Field-Weighted Citation Impact
- 0.00
Funders
- Ministry of Land, Infrastructure, Transport and Tourism
- Japan Society for the Promotion of Science
- Japan Agency for Marine-Earth Science and Technology