Morphological Response of a Sheltered Beach to Extreme Wave and Stream Sediment Delivery Events

Morphological variability on Mediterranean embayed sandy beaches is largely driven by wave storms and episodic sediment inputs from local streams during intense rainfall. While storm impacts are well documented, the combined influence of stream discharge, wave forcing and morphological response remains poorly understood. This study examines these interactions at Castell beach, one of the few non-urbanised, stream-fed embayed beaches on the northwestern Mediterranean, during two high-energy storms with heavy rainfall: December 2019 and January 2020 (Storm Gloria). Morphological changes in the subaerial and submerged beach, and stream dynamics were assessed using repeated RTK–GNSS surveys, orthophotos and echo-sounder bathymetry. Results show the stream mouth shifted along the beach (east, central or west) during heavy rainfall episodes depending on wave direction and pre-existing topography, tending toward more wave-sheltered zones. The storms induced contrasting responses: the first caused slight subaerial accretion, whereas Storm Gloria produced subaerial erosion and nearshore sediment deposition from both beach and stream sources. This material was subsequently reworked and reincorporated into the subaerial beach under calmer conditions, with full recovery by February 2022. These findings highlight the role of stream–wave interactions in sediment dynamics and the capacity of highly protected embayed beaches to adapt to extreme events.

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Publication Details

Journal
Geosciences
Published
2026-01-04
DOI
https://doi.org/10.3390/geosciences16010027
Primary Topic
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
Type
article
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article

Morphological Response of a Sheltered Beach to Extreme Wave and Stream Sediment Delivery Events

Candela Marco-Pereto, Rocio M. Duran, J. I. Guillen, Gonzalo Simarro
Geosciences
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
article

Morphological Response of a Sheltered Beach to Extreme Wave and Stream Sediment Delivery Events

Candela Marco-Pereto, Rocio M. Duran, J. I. Guillen, Gonzalo Simarro
article en

Abstract

Morphological variability on Mediterranean embayed sandy beaches is largely driven by wave storms and episodic sediment inputs from local streams during intense rainfall. While storm impacts are well documented, the combined influence of stream discharge, wave forcing and morphological response remains poorly understood. This study examines these interactions at Castell beach, one of the few non-urbanised, stream-fed embayed beaches on the northwestern Mediterranean, during two high-energy storms with heavy rainfall: December 2019 and January 2020 (Storm Gloria). Morphological changes in the subaerial and submerged beach, and stream dynamics were assessed using repeated RTK–GNSS surveys, orthophotos and echo-sounder bathymetry. Results show the stream mouth shifted along the beach (east, central or west) during heavy rainfall episodes depending on wave direction and pre-existing topography, tending toward more wave-sheltered zones. The storms induced contrasting responses: the first caused slight subaerial accretion, whereas Storm Gloria produced subaerial erosion and nearshore sediment deposition from both beach and stream sources. This material was subsequently reworked and reincorporated into the subaerial beach under calmer conditions, with full recovery by February 2022. These findings highlight the role of stream–wave interactions in sediment dynamics and the capacity of highly protected embayed beaches to adapt to extreme events.

GeosciencesVol. 16(1)
Institut Català de Ciències del Clima (ES), Institut de Ciències del Mar (ES)
Sustainable cities and communities
Openalex Percentile: Top 97%
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
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