Effect of fabric structure and thread density on the sensorial characteristics of station wear uniform for firefighters

Purpose Low-stress mechanical properties significantly influence fabric comfort, durability, aesthetics and tactile performance. This study aims to evaluate the influence of weave structure and pick density on the mechanical behaviour of fire protective station wear fabrics made from meta-aramid yarns, with a focus on identifying structures that optimise both functional and aesthetic performance. Design/methodology/approach Station wear fabrics were manufactured in twill, sateen and honeycomb weaves using 2/40 Ne meta-aramid yarns, with varying pick densities of 40, 46, 52, 58 and 64. The effect of pick density on flame protective performance (FPP) was analysed. Low-stress mechanical properties were evaluated using the Kawabata Evaluation System and fabric tactile characteristics, including tensile linearity and energy, shear rigidity, shear hysteresis (2HG and 2HG5), bending rigidity, compressional resilience and surface properties (MIU and SMD) were assessed. Findings The tensile energy, shear rigidity, shear hysteresis, bending rigidity and compressional energy were highest for the 2/2 twill fabric due to its compact structure and comparatively more interlacing points. By contrast, FPP, tensile compressibility and compressional resilience were greater for the honeycomb weave structure, while five-end sateen fabrics displayed intermediate properties. Increasing pick density reduced compressibility and compressional energy but improved resilience and surface smoothness. The twill weave demonstrated the smoothest surface (lowest MIU and SMD), followed by sateen and honeycomb. Originality/value This study systematically links weave geometry and picks density to low-stress mechanical behaviour in meta-aramid station wear fabrics, providing design guidelines for balancing comfort, durability and tactile performance in protective apparel applications.