Is “good” hair “bad” for young female black Africans? Consumers’ (dis)identification with natural versus synthetic hair care brands

Purpose The social construction of “beautiful” hair has been a contested terrain between Afrocentric and Eurocentric ideals. This study examines the extent to which young black female consumers in South Africa (dis)identify with SheaMoisture and Pantene Pro-V which are perceived to further Afrocentric and Eurocentric ideals respectively. Design/methodology/approach An online questionnaire survey was used to collect data from 590 young black female consumers in South Africa. Data was analysed using structural equation modelling. Findings Brand-self congruity and self-expressive value were found to have a positive impact on young black female consumers’ identification with SheaMoisture, a natural hair care brand. Conversely, brand distinctiveness and self-expressive value emerged as positive antecedents of consumers’ identification with Pantene Pro-V, a synthetic hair brand. Consumers exhibited higher levels of loyalty to both SheaMoisture and Pantene Pro-V, although they indicated willingness to disseminate positive word of mouth only for the SheaMoisture brand. Research limitations/implications This study relied on self-reported data collected from two public universities in South Africa. Although universities are regarded as miniatures of society, the results of this study may not be generalised. Practical implications The results underscore the need for SheaMoisture brand managers to effectively communicate its differential attributes including allaying greenwashing perceptions through the use of clinically proven environmental claims. Originality/value This study contributes to literature by pointing to the emergence of cultural conjunction which is fast weakening the social chasm which was traditionally associated with the consumption of either natural or synthetic hair care products.