Efficacy of cluster development initiatives in India: A study of zari embroidery clusters

The study undertakes a qualitative analysis of two government-funded zari embroidery clusters in West Bengal, India, set up under a ‘cluster development programme’. The study has two objectives: (1) to identify the constraints faced by embroidery artisans; and (2) to assess the performances of clusters in overcoming those constraints and fostering the profitability of the embroidery craft and capacity-building of the artisans. Primary data were collected from 92 artisans, as well as cluster staff, using semi-structured questionnaires and in-depth interviews. The findings identify major problems faced by embroidery artisans, such as dependence on intermediaries, unavailability of credit, a shrinking demand for zari craft, low wages and inadequate resilience to exogenous shocks. The interventions of clusters have two major shortcomings: first, they provide limited time-bound support only with respect to technology, training and marketing; and second, there is a predominance of informal networks based on mutual trust and reciprocity, which challenge the collective action. This calls for approaches to cluster initiatives that internalize informality and social cohesion, enabling effective interventions to ensure the long-term viability of artisanal units.