Biomimetic Cosmetology: Translating Natural Defence of Zygnematophyceae as a UV protection shield mask

Introduction: People are aware of ultraviolet (UV) radiation damage, skin cancer, and ageing thanks to dermatologists, social media, and campaigns. All the influencers and trend setters are recommending Sunscreen as must must-have product in their daily skincare. Higher exposure to UV radiation from the sun can age the skin with wrinkles, fine lines, pigmentation, sunburn and increase the risk of skin cancer. Modern sunscreens are lightweight, transparent, hydrating, mattifying and makeup-friendly thanks to advancements in cosmetology. Definition of the Problem: Even though sunscreen has evolved over the decades, there are still some drawbacks that can be addressed to make it more effective to use every day all seasons. The chemical filters and certain preservatives can irritate sensitive skin or cause allergic reactions. Sunscreen often requires reapplication every two hours and thorough washing at the end of the day. This routine is tiresome and non-feasible for a day-to-day lifestyle. The Frequent application and over cleansing can strip natural oils, especially during winter or dry seasons, which can result in dryness, irritation and flakiness. In this project, we are proposing a biomimetic-inspired hydrogel mask that acts as a UV shield throughout the day, which is hypoallergenic and effectively protects you from UV radiation all day. A series of questions that I asked to solve this problem: “Is there any system in nature that is prone to sunlight all day and survives it effortlessly every day throughout the day?” The answer is yes. There is a perfect system, a zygnematophyte, an algae. .[1] Why zygnematophyte is the right system to study this? Because, Zygnematophytes live in harsh terrestrial environments, like on rocks, soil crusts and temporary puddles. These habitats expose them to strong UV light, desiccation, and temperature fluctuations. Studying them helps us understand the evolution of UV protective strategies that the earliest plants used on land. What do Zygnematophytes do to survive the sun? The response below is referred from [2], where authors have conducted experiments and studied transcriptomics sequencing of the cellular response of this algae under UV radiation. There were certain changes in gene expression due to UV radiation, which caused the upregulation or downregulation of some pathways. The behaviours that I am interested in were those gene expression-induced multilayer protection for algae against UV. Genes responsible for Polysaccharide cross-linking, Callose deposition and Cell-wall reinforcing proteins were activated. The cell wall becomes a UV resistant shield. They found upregulation in pathways producing Flavonoids, Phenolic acids, Aromatic pigments, these molecules act like natural sunscreens, absorbing UV and preventing damage. Response to form: Hydration-based protection water-rich mucilage reduces UV intensity UV generates oxidative stress. The alga boosts Peroxidases, Catalases, and Glutathione-related pathways, which are responsible for preventing oxidation of lipids, proteins, and DNA. Proposed Biomimicry Abstract design: Hydrogel Thin Sheet Mask for Daytime Protection inspired by Zygnematophyceae algae: a. Multilayered UV protective sheet mask, Outer layer (UV Shield)– which has thick & cross-links protection like algae’s cell wall for physical shielding of UV radiation [3] Middle layer(UV absorption)- which acts as a UV absorption with natural sunscreen molecules embedded in the hydrogels. Inner layer (UV Repair) – Which is designed to provide hydration and reduce oxidation stress created by UV radiation by using antioxidants. b. How do we make this design possible? We are going to construct 3 layers of thin hydrogel membrane For the Outer layer – Cellulose nanocrystal hydrogel is suitable for this, as one of their properties of to scatter the UV radiation and will act as a shield [5] For the middle layer – hydrogel infused with embedding plant-derived flavonoids, phenolic nanocapsules in hydrogel to absorb UV radiation[6] For the inner layer - we can combine the mucilage derived from algae and vitamin C as antioxidants for hydration c. For Hydrogel matrix: The combination of glycerine, hyaluronic acid, and pearl extract from the study [4], which is already proven to contribute to skin hydration and to counteract the signs of ageing, and to possess antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. d. For Stability and shelf life: Each mask can be packed in a sterilised tight packet, which helps in avoiding the move preservatives in the mask. This mask can use a basic encapsulation strategy and PH buffers. [4] Expected Outcomes: This sheet mask provides continuous hydration to the skin from inside and protects it from UV using naturally inspired photoprotective components, instead of the major UV blocking harmful chemicals that irritate the skin. This sheet mask can be easily removed at the end of the day without needing for major cleansing routine, which will preserve natural oils and skin balance. Physical appearance of the mask: Thin, laminated hydrogel sheets in micrometre thickness are almost seamless on the skin, which is easy to wear, as it is naturally adhesive to the skin Long-lasting protection up to 8-12 hrs, along with skin hydration, this three layered protection does degrade over time like regular sunscreen Conclusion: This multilayered facemask stands as a proof-of-concept for designing next-generation skin protection systems that work with nature’s intelligence rather than relying on synthetic chemicals. Biomimetic approach to daily sun protection, inspired by the Zygnematophyceae algae, which naturally shield cells from harmful UV radiation. This idea helps to overcome the drawbacks of traditional sunscreens chemical irritation, heavy textures, and the need for frequent reapplication and extensive cleansing. Reference: Busch, A., & Hess, S. (2021). Sunscreen mucilage: a photoprotective adaptation found in terrestrial green algae (Zygnematophyceae). European Journal of Phycology, 57(1),107–124. https://doi.org/10.1080/09670262.2021.1898677 Busch A, Gerbracht JV, Davies K, Hoecker U, Hess S. Comparative transcriptomics elucidates the cellular responses of an aeroterrestrial zygnematophyte to UV radiation. J Exp Bot. 2024 Jun 7;75(11):3624-3642. doi: 10.1093/jxb/erae131. PMID: 38520340; PMCID: PMC11156808. Charlotte Permann, “Temperature- and light stress adaptations in Zygnematophyceae: The challenges of a semi-terrestrial lifestyle”, https://www.frontiersin.org/journals/plant science/articles/10.3389/fpls.2022.945394/full Quattrone, A.; Czajka, A.; Sibilla, S. Thermosensitive Hydrogel Mask Significantly Improves Skin Moisture and Skin Tone; Bilateral Clinical Trial. Cosmetics 2017, 4, 17. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics4020017 Zuwu TangMeiqiong YuYuqing Yang, Development of an Antioxidant and UV Shielding Composite Hydrogel Using Mussel-Inspired Cellulose Nanocrystals, Polydopamine, and Poly(vinyl alcohol) for Application in Sunscreens, https://pubs.acs.org/doi/10.1021/acsapm.3c01199 Hegde, A.R., Kunder, M.U., Narayanaswamy, M. et al. Advancements in sunscreen formulations: integrating polyphenolic nanocarriers and nanotechnology for enhanced UV protection. Environ Sci Pollut Res 31, 38061–38082 (2024). https://doi.org/10.1007/s11356-024-33712-0