Authenticity of <i>terroir</i> : innovation in Rioja winemaking

Purpose The purpose of this study is to develop a theory of innovation in authenticity within the Rioja terroir. Design/methodology/approach We conduct a multiple case study with qualitative data analysis utilising six cases from a Wine Spectator magazine article. Findings We integrate two strands of pre-modern thought on soil to identify nationalism in terroir. We recognised family heritage as a semiotic component of terroir. Research limitations/implications Some may perceive the reliance on a single media source as a limitation. We aimed to select cases based on relevance and focus rather than merely validating our hypotheses. Our findings indicate modest engagement by critics and journalists with nationalistic narratives related to Rioja winemaking. The limited evidence may be insufficient to establish a significant trend. However, this study illuminates the influence of national identity in wine discourse. Practical implications Innovating in the authenticity of terroir within the Old-World style can be achieved by designing novel combinations of heritage-based winemaking practices and vineyard selection, combination and cultivation. In contrast, innovation in authenticity in the New-World style can be accomplished by designing novel combinations of contemporary winemaking practices and vineyard techniques. Social implications Our findings highlight how authenticity in Rioja wine extends beyond taste to cultural identity, heritage and nationalism. Winemaking practices carry social meaning, shaping how consumers connect products to place and history. This has implications for cultural preservation, as producers balance tradition with innovation to stay competitive. It also raises questions about how national identity can be embedded in food and beverage marketing, influencing consumer perceptions globally. For communities, emphasising authenticity supports local economies and strengthens cultural continuity, while also sparking debate over what should be preserved, adapted or reinvented in a globalised marketplace. Originality/value Path structuring allowed us to expand the study by examining which imaginaries were selected or deselected to explain the reasons for these selections. Combinatorial evolution provides a theory of innovation in terroir in general and Rioja winemaking in particular.