The Algorithmic Assemblage: Artificial Intelligence, Real Subsumption, and Labor Contestation in the Global Fashion Supply Chain

This paper critically examines the penetration of artificial intelligence (AI) in China’s fashion supply chains through the dimensions of culture, labor, and ethics. It argues that AI integration is not merely technical but a socio-technical process reshaping capital–labor relations. Culturally, AI redefines “Made in China” from cheap labor to algorithm-driven intelligent production, aligning with national upgrading narratives. At the factory level, AI-enabled “small-order, quick-response” models, typified by ultra-fast fashion, create a new “Digital Taylorism” that digitizes market pressure, intensifies labor, and extends working hours. Yet workers adapt and resist through daily strategies, revealing agency within constraint. Ethically, brands employ AI-driven transparency discourses as “performative ethics,” masking structural contradictions and labor rights violations. The study concludes that ethical reflection must move beyond corporate-led initiatives, scrutinize algorithmic power in production, and advocate co-governance frameworks with worker representation in technology design and oversight.

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Publication Details

Journal
Costume and Culture Studies
Published
2025-06-30
DOI
https://doi.org/10.6914/css.030103
Primary Topic
Educational Leadership and Innovation
Type
article
Field-Weighted Citation Impact
0.00
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article

The Algorithmic Assemblage: Artificial Intelligence, Real Subsumption, and Labor Contestation in the Global Fashion Supply Chain

Costume and Culture Studies
Educational Leadership and Innovation
article

The Algorithmic Assemblage: Artificial Intelligence, Real Subsumption, and Labor Contestation in the Global Fashion Supply Chain

article en

Abstract

This paper critically examines the penetration of artificial intelligence (AI) in China’s fashion supply chains through the dimensions of culture, labor, and ethics. It argues that AI integration is not merely technical but a socio-technical process reshaping capital–labor relations. Culturally, AI redefines “Made in China” from cheap labor to algorithm-driven intelligent production, aligning with national upgrading narratives. At the factory level, AI-enabled “small-order, quick-response” models, typified by ultra-fast fashion, create a new “Digital Taylorism” that digitizes market pressure, intensifies labor, and extends working hours. Yet workers adapt and resist through daily strategies, revealing agency within constraint. Ethically, brands employ AI-driven transparency discourses as “performative ethics,” masking structural contradictions and labor rights violations. The study concludes that ethical reflection must move beyond corporate-led initiatives, scrutinize algorithmic power in production, and advocate co-governance frameworks with worker representation in technology design and oversight.

Costume and Culture StudiesVol. 3(1)
Department of Social Sciences (RU)
Decent work and economic growth
Openalex Percentile: Top 36%
Educational Leadership and Innovation
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The Algorithmic Assemblage: Artificial Intelligence, Real Subsumption, and Labor Contestation in the Global Fashion Supply Chain · Costume and Culture Studies (2025) | TGRS Research Map | TGRS