Garbs of emotion: Costume as an affective medium in Tumbbad

Costumes in folklore horror represent a community’s cultural identity and heritage, embodying the stories, rituals and beliefs passed down through generations. They breathe life into these narratives, making them tangible and relatable. Recently, the Indian cinematic gaze has shifted from Hindi-speaking cinema to pan-Indian cinema, where regional myths, traditions and folklore occupy narrative spaces, such as in Tumbbad (2018). This article aims to explore the essentiality of costumes in the film, which reflect changes in societal values and depict aesthetics and artistic techniques while maintaining a connection with the rich tapestry of tradition through the intersection of affect theory. Costumes become a medium for symbolic transformations in the films and evoke affective reactions in the audience. The article is constructed to theorize about the emotional and affective response generated through costumes. This study primarily focuses on the context of the affective atmospheres generated through costumes when numerous felt bodies congregate for performance, transcend the individual and create a sensory state where the community is experienced and highlighted. Lastly, to deconstruct and comprehend the affective prowess in costumes, the article also draws insights from the semi-structured interview conducted with the costume designer of Tumbbad.