Finite Element Analysis of Groove Depth and Failure Risk in Climbing Carabiners

Climbing carabiners are critical safety tools in mountaineering, yet their failure due to wear and fatigue over time remains a fatal cause of climbing-related accidents. Manufacturer ratings are based on uniaxial tensile tests of new carabiners to failure, yet carabiners may develop grooves over time that cause failure under repeated loading in real-world scenarios. The structural integrity of grooved carabiners is difficult to assess and current safety standards do not account for this wear, leaving climbers to subjectively determine the threshold for equipment retirement. This study investigates the relationship between groove depth and carabiner strength using Finite Element Modeling (FEM), simulating stress-strain behavior under forces equivalent to realistic lead-climbing falls. Detailed carabiner models with varying groove depths identify the critical groove depths beyond which structural integrity is in jeopardy. We find that beyond a groove depth of xxx, carabiners are unable to withstand typical fall forces. This study aims to establish guidelines for retiring worn carabiners, providing climbers and manufacturers with actionable data and failure points to enhance safety standards. Bridging this gap between laboratory testing and real-world usage will contribute to reducing climbing- related accidents caused by equipment failure.