Conformity and contradictions : Exploring return management and sustainability in fashion e-retail through neo-institutional theory

This thesis explores the interplay between return management and sustainability in the fashion e-retail sector through the lens of neo-institutional theory. It addresses how institutional pressures –normative, coercive, and mimetic – shape managerial perspectives on product presentation, return policies, and sustainability initiatives. Through empirical data collected via 40 in-depth interviews with managers in fashion e-retail, the study uncovers the complex dynamics at play, emphasizing how global sustainability pressures interact with localized practices and symbolic compliance strategies. The findings shed light on the tension between achieving operational efficiency and meeting sustainability claims, alongside the challenges of reconciling consumer expectations with the industry's sustainability goals. The research identifies high return volumes as a systemic issue, influenced by industry norms and consumer-driven expectations rather than solely by specific managerial strategies. It highlights the widespread use of symbolic compliance as a means to project alignment with sustainability objectives, despite a lack of substantive integration into operational practices. These findings are framed within the concepts of isomorphism and decoupling, illustrating how fashion e-retailers navigate legitimacy pressures while grappling with the operational realities of return management. Central to this thesis is an exploration of decoupling strategies, both symbolic and mental, that allow organizations to maintain external legitimacy while internal practices remain unchanged. This duality reflects the broader contradictions within the industry, where symbolic sustainability often overshadows genuine environmental efforts. By examining these dynamics, the thesis contributes to neo-institutional theory, providing insights into the role of isomorphic pressures in shaping managerial behavior and uncovering the limitations of symbolic compliance in fostering meaningful change. The study's findings have implications for both theory and practice. For researchers, it expands the understanding of how institutional pressures manifest in operational practices within e-commerce. For practitioners, it offers actionable insights into bridging the gap between sustainability claims and return management practices, emphasizing the need for integrated approaches that align with both consumer expectations and environmental objectives. This thesis provides a nuanced understanding of the complexities surrounding return management and sustainability, offering a roadmap for fashion e-retailers striving to balance legitimacy, consumer satisfaction, and environmental responsibility.