Virtual Dress, Real Responsibilities: Considerations of 3D CAD Patternmaking to Develop Substitute Garments for Historic Dress Research and Display

This paper explores how 3D reconstructions of historic dress can be utilized as an aid for the development of real substitute garments and digital visualization for display. While 3D reconstruction is presently implemented in other museology fields, the flexible nature of dress suggests a need for an alternative approach, in addition to ethical considerations from the practitioner’s involvement. This is demonstrated through the development of a substitute skirt for an 1887-1890 Japanese Western-style ceremonial court dress (taireifuku), originally made for and worn by the Meiji Empress. The skirt of the original ensemble is missing and its appearance remains unknown, requiring a substitute skirt to support the original garments when mounted. Following an object-based research approach and advice from experts in dress history and conservation, the author conceptualized a substitute skirt with the assistance of 3D CAD patternmaking software. The result was used as a visual and pattern aid to develop the real substitute skirt that was used with the real taireifuku for two public displays. Furthermore, further utilization of the virtual reconstruction was demonstrated through the author’s development of additional skirt concepts, adapting them for a digital display which was exhibited with the real artefact.