Tribidrag and Malvasija dubrovačka – a new life of two ancient grapevine varieties in Croatia

The varieties ‘Tribidrag’ (syn. ‘Zinfandel’, ‘Primitivo’, ‘Kratošija’) and ‘Malvasija dubrovačka’ (syn. ‘Malvasia delle Lipari’, ‘Malvasia de Sitges’, ‘Malvasia de la Palma’) can serve as typical exam­ples of the value of a variety whose wine has been recognized and appreciated by people for centuries, but also of their vul­nerability through different production and social systems. They have a long and interesting history and international reputation. But from the turn of the 20th to the 21st century, they were on the verge of disappearing from Croatian vineyards. Through targeted projects, and the dedication of researchers and wine­growers, they have undergone a remarkable revival. In Croatia, until 2004, ‘Tribidrag’ as a variety was not in production, nor was there any ‘Tribidrag’ wine on the market for more than a hundred years. Today, it is grown on over 65 ha and there are over 20 wine labels achieving critical and commercial success. Similarly, ‘Malvasija dubrovačka’, was reduced to 200-300 vines two decades ago but is now grown on nearly 40 hectares around Dubrovnik, yielding high-quality wines, including premium des­sert wines. This review synthesizes recent ampelographic and genetic findings on these two varieties to better understand the processes and significance of reintroducing traditional grapevine varieties into their historical regions.