A Spectrochemically Driven Study: Identifying Phenolic-Rich Extracts from Helichrysum stoechas, Lavandula pedunculata, and Thymus mastichina with Potential to Revert Skin Aging Effects
<b>Background/Objectives</b>: Plants inhabiting mediterranean-influenced climatic zones, like <i>Helichrysum stoechas</i> (L.) Moench subsp. <i>stoechas</i>, <i>Lavandula pedunculata</i> (Mill.) Cav., and <i>Thymus mastichina</i> (L.) L. subsp. <i>mastichina</i>, have been scarcely investigated regarding their richness in phenolic compounds, herein explored as sources of skin anti-aging compounds. <b>Methods</b>: In this investigation, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) in attenuated total reflectance (ATR) mode and high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with diode-array detection and electrospray ionization tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC-DAD-ESI/MS<sup>n</sup>) were employed to chemically characterize the hydroethanolic extracts (HEs), and their cell-free antioxidant potential was screened. Thereafter, non-toxic concentrations of HEs were determined in human skin cells using Alamar blue<sup>®</sup> and Sulforhodamine B assays. The cytoprotective and antioxidant effects of HEs were assessed in <i>tert</i>-butyl hydroperoxide-stimulated fibroblasts, their anti-inflammatory potential was studied in lipopolysaccharide-injured macrophages, and enzymatic inhibition assays were performed. Notably, the irritant effects of HEs were tested according to Test Guideline No. 439 of the Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD). <b>Results</b>: The major compounds identified in the <i>T. mastichina</i> and <i>L. pedunculata</i> HEs were rosmarinic and salvianolic acid derivatives, while <i>H. stoechas</i> HE was mainly composed of caffeoyl and feruloyl derivatives, and <i>O</i>-glycosylated flavonoids. <i>T. mastichina</i> (≤0.4 mg/mL) exhibited significant cytoprotective, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant effects, as well as remarkable anti-hyaluronidase activity. <b>Conclusions</b>: Shedding light on the quantitative and qualitative chemical picture of these HEs highlighted <i>T. mastichina</i> as a promising candidate to target skin aging effects, which correlates with its phenolic content. Further investigation is warranted regarding its anti-aging pharmacological activity, which could lead to the development of plant-based skin anti-aging products.
Authors
- Rebeca André (ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-2733-5797)
- Mário Pedro Marques (ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-5414-366X)
- Maria Teresa Cruz (ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0001-9846-6754)
- Carla Varela (ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-9824-4753)
- Patrícia Rijo (ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0001-7992-8343)
- Joana Marques (ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-7333-9158)
- María Inês Días (ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0001-8744-7814)
- Célia Cabral (ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0003-4562-6683)
- Ricardo M. F. da Costa (ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-5426-412X)
- Aida Carvalho (ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0001-8997-9195)
- Luís A. E. Batista de Carvalho (ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-8059-8537)
- Ana Silva (ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-4041-0376)
- Paulo J. Oliveira (ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-5201-9948)
- Euclides Landim (ORCID: https://orcid.org/0009-0008-2526-4949)
Institutions
- University of Lisbon (PT)
- Universidade Politécnica de Bragança (PT)
- Universidade Politécnica da Guarda (PT)
- Escola de Negócios e Administração (PT)
- University of Coimbra (PT)
- Universidade Lusófona (PT)
Publication Details
- Journal
- Pharmaceuticals
- Published
- 2025-12-14
- DOI
- https://doi.org/10.3390/ph18121889
- Primary Topic
- Phytochemicals and Antioxidant Activities
- Type
- article
- Field-Weighted Citation Impact
- 0.00
Funders
- Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia