A Spectrochemically Driven Study: Identifying Phenolic-Rich Extracts from Helichrysum stoechas, Lavandula pedunculata, and Thymus mastichina with Potential to Revert Skin Aging Effects

<b>Background/Objectives</b>: Plants inhabiting mediterranean-influenced climatic zones, like <i>Helichrysum stoechas</i> (L.) Moench subsp. <i>stoechas</i>, <i>Lavandula pedunculata</i> (Mill.) Cav., and <i>Thymus mastichina</i> (L.) L. subsp. <i>mastichina</i>, have been scarcely investigated regarding their richness in phenolic compounds, herein explored as sources of skin anti-aging compounds. <b>Methods</b>: In this investigation, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) in attenuated total reflectance (ATR) mode and high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with diode-array detection and electrospray ionization tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC-DAD-ESI/MS<sup>n</sup>) were employed to chemically characterize the hydroethanolic extracts (HEs), and their cell-free antioxidant potential was screened. Thereafter, non-toxic concentrations of HEs were determined in human skin cells using Alamar blue<sup>®</sup> and Sulforhodamine B assays. The cytoprotective and antioxidant effects of HEs were assessed in <i>tert</i>-butyl hydroperoxide-stimulated fibroblasts, their anti-inflammatory potential was studied in lipopolysaccharide-injured macrophages, and enzymatic inhibition assays were performed. Notably, the irritant effects of HEs were tested according to Test Guideline No. 439 of the Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD). <b>Results</b>: The major compounds identified in the <i>T. mastichina</i> and <i>L. pedunculata</i> HEs were rosmarinic and salvianolic acid derivatives, while <i>H. stoechas</i> HE was mainly composed of caffeoyl and feruloyl derivatives, and <i>O</i>-glycosylated flavonoids. <i>T. mastichina</i> (≤0.4 mg/mL) exhibited significant cytoprotective, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant effects, as well as remarkable anti-hyaluronidase activity. <b>Conclusions</b>: Shedding light on the quantitative and qualitative chemical picture of these HEs highlighted <i>T. mastichina</i> as a promising candidate to target skin aging effects, which correlates with its phenolic content. Further investigation is warranted regarding its anti-aging pharmacological activity, which could lead to the development of plant-based skin anti-aging products.

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Journal
Pharmaceuticals
Published
2025-12-14
DOI
https://doi.org/10.3390/ph18121889
Primary Topic
Phytochemicals and Antioxidant Activities
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article
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article

A Spectrochemically Driven Study: Identifying Phenolic-Rich Extracts from Helichrysum stoechas, Lavandula pedunculata, and Thymus mastichina with Potential to Revert Skin Aging Effects

Rebeca André, Mário Pedro Marques, Maria Teresa Cruz, Carla Varela et al.
Pharmaceuticals
Phytochemicals and Antioxidant Activities
article

A Spectrochemically Driven Study: Identifying Phenolic-Rich Extracts from Helichrysum stoechas, Lavandula pedunculata, and Thymus mastichina with Potential to Revert Skin Aging Effects

Rebeca André, Mário Pedro Marques, Maria Teresa Cruz, Carla Varela, Patrícia Rijo, Joana Marques, María Inês Días, Célia Cabral, Ricardo M. F. da Costa, Aida Carvalho, Luís A. E. Batista de Carvalho, Ana Silva, Paulo J. Oliveira, Euclides Landim
article en

Abstract

<b>Background/Objectives</b>: Plants inhabiting mediterranean-influenced climatic zones, like <i>Helichrysum stoechas</i> (L.) Moench subsp. <i>stoechas</i>, <i>Lavandula pedunculata</i> (Mill.) Cav., and <i>Thymus mastichina</i> (L.) L. subsp. <i>mastichina</i>, have been scarcely investigated regarding their richness in phenolic compounds, herein explored as sources of skin anti-aging compounds. <b>Methods</b>: In this investigation, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) in attenuated total reflectance (ATR) mode and high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with diode-array detection and electrospray ionization tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC-DAD-ESI/MS<sup>n</sup>) were employed to chemically characterize the hydroethanolic extracts (HEs), and their cell-free antioxidant potential was screened. Thereafter, non-toxic concentrations of HEs were determined in human skin cells using Alamar blue<sup>®</sup> and Sulforhodamine B assays. The cytoprotective and antioxidant effects of HEs were assessed in <i>tert</i>-butyl hydroperoxide-stimulated fibroblasts, their anti-inflammatory potential was studied in lipopolysaccharide-injured macrophages, and enzymatic inhibition assays were performed. Notably, the irritant effects of HEs were tested according to Test Guideline No. 439 of the Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD). <b>Results</b>: The major compounds identified in the <i>T. mastichina</i> and <i>L. pedunculata</i> HEs were rosmarinic and salvianolic acid derivatives, while <i>H. stoechas</i> HE was mainly composed of caffeoyl and feruloyl derivatives, and <i>O</i>-glycosylated flavonoids. <i>T. mastichina</i> (≤0.4 mg/mL) exhibited significant cytoprotective, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant effects, as well as remarkable anti-hyaluronidase activity. <b>Conclusions</b>: Shedding light on the quantitative and qualitative chemical picture of these HEs highlighted <i>T. mastichina</i> as a promising candidate to target skin aging effects, which correlates with its phenolic content. Further investigation is warranted regarding its anti-aging pharmacological activity, which could lead to the development of plant-based skin anti-aging products.

PharmaceuticalsVol. 18(12)
University of Lisbon (PT), Universidade Politécnica de Bragança (PT), Universidade Politécnica da Guarda (PT), Escola de Negócios e Administração (PT), University of Coimbra (PT), Universidade Lusófona (PT)
Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia
Openalex Percentile: Top 59%
Phytochemicals and Antioxidant Activities
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