From Black Box to Transparency: An Explainable Machine Learning (ML) Framework for Ocean Wave Prediction Using SHAP and Feature-Engineering-Derived Variable

Accurate prediction of significant wave height (SWH) is central to coastal ocean dynamics, wave–climate assessment, and operational marine forecasting, yet many high-performing machine-learning (ML) models remain opaque and weakly connected to underlying wave physics. We propose an explainable, feature engineering-guided ML framework for coastal SWH prediction that combines extremal wave statistics, temporal descriptors, and SHAP-based interpretation. Using 30 min buoy observations from a high-energy, wave-dominated coastal site off Australia’s Gold Coast, we benchmarked seven regression models (Linear Regression, Decision Tree, Random Forest, Gradient Boosting, Support Vector Regression, K-Nearest Neighbors, and Neural Networks) across four feature sets: (i) Base (Hmax, Tz, Tp, SST, peak direction), (ii) Base + Temporal (lags, rolling statistics, cyclical hour/month encodings), (iii) Base + a physics-informed Wave Height Ratio, WHR = Hmax/Hs, and (iv) Full (Base + Temporal + WHR). Model skill is evaluated for full-year, 1-month, and 10-day prediction windows. Performance was assessed using R2, RMSE, MAE, and bias metrics, with the Technique for Order Preference by Similarity to Ideal Solution (TOPSIS) employed for multi-criteria ranking. Inclusion of WHR systematically improves performance, raising test R2 from a baseline range of ~0.85–0.95 to values exceeding 0.97 and reducing RMSE by up to 86%, with a Random Forest|Base + WHR configuration achieving the top TOPSIS score (1.000). SHAP analysis identifies WHR and lagged SWH as dominant predictors, linking model behavior to extremal sea states and short-term memory in the wave field. The proposed framework demonstrates how embedding simple, physically motivated features and explainable AI tools can transform black-box coastal wave predictors into transparent models suitable for geophysical fluid dynamics, coastal hazard assessment, and wave-energy applications.