Redefining Red: Microbial Polyketides in Eco-Friendly Cosmetic Development

The increasing consumer demand for environmentally and health-conscious cosmetic products has propelled research into natural alternatives to synthetic colorants, which are often associated with negative health impacts. This study explores the development of facial cream, shampoo, and multifunctional jelly stick formulations incorporating lyophilized polyketide azaphilone red colorant produced by <i>Talaromyces amestolkiae</i>. The lyophilized extract was characterized by their antioxidant activity, cytotoxicity, and influence on the physicochemical properties of cosmetic formulations. At concentrations of 1 and 5 wt %, the extract demonstrated antioxidant capacity, reducing ROS levels by over 75% under oxidative stress while maintaining cell viability above 60%. Formulations containing the lyophilized extract exhibited suitable pH values, with rheological and texture analyses confirming their desirable application properties. Texture profile analysis indicated improved spreadability due to reduced adhesiveness and hardness, particularly at 1 wt % lyophilized extract concentration. Stability assessments revealed that color degradation was primarily influenced by temperature, with UV light having a lesser effect. The SWOT analysis identified microbial colorants as promising sustainable alternatives, despite current limitations in stability and regulatory hurdles. This study presents the potential of the lyophilized extract containing natural polyketide colorant produced through bioprocess as an eco-conscious alternative in cosmetics, offering both functional and environmental advantages over conventional synthetic dyes.

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Publication Details

Journal
ACS Omega
Published
2025-12-08
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1021/acsomega.5c10255
Primary Topic
Microbial Metabolism and Applications
Type
article
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article

Redefining Red: Microbial Polyketides in Eco-Friendly Cosmetic Development

Lídia Gonçalves, Nathalia Vieira Porphirio Veríssimo, Pedro Garcia Pereira Silva, Júlio Gabriel Oliveira de Lima et al.
ACS Omega
Microbial Metabolism and Applications
article

Redefining Red: Microbial Polyketides in Eco-Friendly Cosmetic Development

Lídia Gonçalves, Nathalia Vieira Porphirio Veríssimo, Pedro Garcia Pereira Silva, Júlio Gabriel Oliveira de Lima, Joana Marto, Valéria C. Santos‐Ebinuma, Luísa Carvalho, Juliana Barone Teixeira
article en

Abstract

The increasing consumer demand for environmentally and health-conscious cosmetic products has propelled research into natural alternatives to synthetic colorants, which are often associated with negative health impacts. This study explores the development of facial cream, shampoo, and multifunctional jelly stick formulations incorporating lyophilized polyketide azaphilone red colorant produced by <i>Talaromyces amestolkiae</i>. The lyophilized extract was characterized by their antioxidant activity, cytotoxicity, and influence on the physicochemical properties of cosmetic formulations. At concentrations of 1 and 5 wt %, the extract demonstrated antioxidant capacity, reducing ROS levels by over 75% under oxidative stress while maintaining cell viability above 60%. Formulations containing the lyophilized extract exhibited suitable pH values, with rheological and texture analyses confirming their desirable application properties. Texture profile analysis indicated improved spreadability due to reduced adhesiveness and hardness, particularly at 1 wt % lyophilized extract concentration. Stability assessments revealed that color degradation was primarily influenced by temperature, with UV light having a lesser effect. The SWOT analysis identified microbial colorants as promising sustainable alternatives, despite current limitations in stability and regulatory hurdles. This study presents the potential of the lyophilized extract containing natural polyketide colorant produced through bioprocess as an eco-conscious alternative in cosmetics, offering both functional and environmental advantages over conventional synthetic dyes.

ACS OmegaVol. 10(50)
University of Lisbon (PT), Ono Pharmaceutical (United States) (US), Institute for Medical Research (AR), Hospital Universitário da Universidade de São Paulo (BR), Pharmaceutical Biotechnology (Czechia) (CZ), Universidade Estadual Paulista (Unesp) (BR)
Openalex Percentile: Top 59%
Microbial Metabolism and Applications
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