Fashioning the future: Bio-based textiles, circular innovation, and sustainability in emerging markets

The global fashion industry, a significant contributor to environmental degradation and socio-economic disparities, is undergoing a critical transformation towards sustainability. This paper investigates the burgeoning field of bio-based textiles derived from food and agricultural waste, examining their potential to foster a circular economy and drive sustainable development in emerging markets. Through a qualitative multiple case study analysis of nine pioneering companies—Desserto, Piñatex (Ananas Anam), Circular Systems, Inversa Leathers, Frumat, Vegea, Bananatex, S.Café, and QMILK—this research explores how materials originating from pineapple, banana, apple, grape, cactus, coffee, milk, and even invasive species are converted into innovative textiles. The study critically assesses how these innovations contribute to specific United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs)—notably SDG 8 (Decent Work and Economic Growth), SDG 9 (Industry, Innovation, and Infrastructure), SDG 12 (Responsible Consumption and Production), SDG 13 (Climate Action), and SDG 15 (Life on Land)—by reducing environmental footprints, valorizing waste streams, and creating socio-economic opportunities, particularly within the Global South. The findings highlight the technological advancements, environmental advantages, and the significant, yet complex, socio-economic potential of decentralized textile production. By framing these innovations within socio-technical transition theories and a circular economy lens, this paper offers nuanced insights into how the convergence of material science, food system valorization, ethical branding, and policy support is reshaping the trajectory of the fashion industry towards a more regenerative and equitable future.