Kenaf fibre valorisation: a comparative study of processing effects on materials properties and yarn conversion potential

Abstract This study pioneers a standardised evaluation framework for industrially processed kenaf (Hibiscus cannabinus L.) fibres in textile applications, addressing critical gaps in natural fibre characterisation. We rigorously evaluated four kenaf grades—bio-retted (SKM1-BRP), chemically degummed (SKM1-DP), partially retted (SKM2-BGA), and mechanically extracted (SKM3-MG), using ASTM protocols including D5103 for length, D3822 for tensile strength, and D6961 for colour. Our comprehensive assessment quantified carding efficiency, moisture behaviour, density, and yarn conversion potential. The results demonstrate that enzymatic bio-retting (SKM1-BRP) achieves exceptional performance, showing only 21.82% mass loss during carding compared to 71.86% for chemically processed SKM1-DP, along with superior tensile strength (1257 MPa, 4.6 times higher than SKM1-DP) and optimal fibre length (9.7 cm) for producing fine yarns (29–44 Tex). While chemical degumming significantly compromises fibre integrity, mechanical processing emerges as a cost-effective alternative, offering 50–60% savings for technical textile applications despite requiring residual shive management. By establishing clear correlations between processing methods and textile-specific outcomes, this work provides three key contributions: (1) industrial benchmarks for kenaf fibre selection, (2) definitive evidence of enzymatic retting’s superiority for premium yarn production, and (3) actionable strategies to scale sustainable kenaf textiles as viable alternatives to synthetic fibres. These findings advance both the science and practical application of bio-based materials in the textile industry.