Back to black (I): Techniques, materials, and terminology of historical black dyeing (1700–1899)

This study revisits black dyeing methods documented in 23 pieces of European and American literature from 1700 to 1899, revealing the complexity and adaptability of pre-synthetic black dyeing practices. Black was achieved exclusively through compound processes, most notably by D subtractive mixing of primary colors and iron-tannate precipitation on colored grounds such as blue or fawn. The research highlights the interplay between technological advances, regional expertise, and economic factors that shaped the selection of dyes, mordants, and auxiliary agents. Dyer’s language—specialized terminology describing shades, processes, and local methods—emerges as a crucial component for standardizing and transmitting technical knowledge. By reconstructing formulation and procedural details, this investigation provides a critical foundation for the preservation, interpretation, and revival of durable black dyeing techniques in both heritage conservation and sustainable contemporary practice.