Looking at the Possibility of Using Mushroom Mycelium for Developing Leather-like Materials Aligned with Eco-Friendly and Sustainable Fashion Trends

The growing demand for sustainable alternatives to animal and synthetic leathers has accelerated interest in mycelium-based materials as an eco-friendly solution for the fashion industry. This study explores the potential of mushroom mycelium to create leather-like materials that align with circular fashion principles. Five species of edible and medicinal mushrooms were cultivated on sawdust substrates and evaluated for their growth performance, physical properties, and suitability as leather substitutes. Growth analysis revealed distinct species-specific behaviors: <i>Cubamyces flavidus</i> and <i>Lentinus squarrosulus</i> exhibited rapid colonization, achieving full substrate coverage within five days and forming dense mycelial networks at 14 days. In contrast, despite growing more slowly, <i>Sanghuangporus vaninii</i> and <i>Ganoderma gibbosum</i> formed thicker, more compact mats that might be suitable for strong leather-like materials. Visual and structural assessments showed diverse textures, colors, and hyphal architectures resembling natural leather. Physical characterization revealed shrinkage ranging from 13.17% to 24.09%, higher than for cow tanned leather (>5%) and PU microfiber (0.1-1.2%), suggesting a need for stabilization treatments. Apparent densities ranged from 0.13 g/cm³ to 0.30 g/cm³, lower than those of cow leather (0.49 g/cm³) and PU leather (0.38 g/cm³), highlighting species-specific hyphal structures that influence flexibility, porosity, and strength. SEM imaging confirmed the presence of interwoven hyphal mats resembling the fibrous architecture of natural leather, with <i>S. vaninii</i> showing the most uniform and continuous structure. Water absorption was significantly higher in mycelium sheets, consistent with their microporous nature, though <i>S. vaninii</i> showed the lowest uptake, reflecting possible natural water absorption. Thermogravimetric analysis revealed three-stage degradation profiles, with <i>S. vaninii</i> and <i>G. gibbosum</i> retaining >35% mass at 400 °C, indicating strong thermal stability for processing techniques such as hot pressing and finishing. Overall, the results demonstrate mycelium-based leathers as a biodegradable, low-impact alternative that can replicate the visual and functional characteristics of traditional leather, with opportunities for further improvement in substrate optimization, eco-tanning, surface coating, and scalable production toward a sustainable fashion future.