POLEVAN®—A Multifunctional Natural Hair Ingredient, as Determined by In-Vitro and Human Studies

Natural shampoos are increasingly designed to provide multifunctional benefits beyond cleansing, including hair conditioning, scalp protection, and reduced irritation potential. POLEVAN®, a proprietary levan-based polysaccharide produced enzymatically from sugar, offers a combination of oligo- and polysaccharide fractions with potential cosmetic applications. This study evaluated POLEVAN® in shampoo formulations for three targeted effects: improving hair glossiness, enhancing scalp moisturization, and boosting foam while enabling reduced surfactant levels. Glossiness was assessed ex vivo using damaged hair tresses. Moisturization was assessed in a randomized clinical trial, comparing the test formulation with hyaluronic acid (HA), employing corneometer readings and Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) measurements. The study was subject-blinded, and all outcomes were determined solely through quantitative, device-based measurements, minimizing observer bias. Foaming performance was tested using the Shaking Cylinder Method. Shampoos containing 2% POLEVAN® significantly increased hair glossiness by 24% (p = 0.0375) versus a non-significant increase without POLEVAN®. Moisturization studies showed no significant difference between POLEVAN® and HA in maintaining hydration or preventing TEWL over 4 weeks. Foam analysis demonstrated that addition of POLEVAN® allowed up to 50% reduction in surfactant content without compromising foam generation or stability. These results highlight POLEVAN® as a multifunctional natural ingredient capable of improving sensory and performance attributes of shampoos while supporting gentler formulations.