Soliton gas dynamics and rogue wave enhancement in a natural coastal environment

We document a field experiment in which a path to strongly interacting soliton gas dynamics is observed within an intermittently open/closed estuary. We show that the shallow estuary mouth acts as a low-pass filter for incoming ocean waves, damping energy within the swell frequency band (0.04–1 Hz) and allowing surf-zone generated infragravity waves (frequency band 0.004–0.04 Hz) to enter the semienclosed shallow lagoon formed near the estuary mouth. These long waves penetrate under highly nonlinear conditions with Ursell numbers consistent with multisoliton fission regimes. The <a:math xmlns:a="http://www.w3.org/1998/Math/MathML"> <a:mrow> <a:mi>k</a:mi> <a:mtext>–</a:mtext> <a:mi>ω</a:mi> </a:mrow> </a:math> spectrum of the incident wave trains is consistent with solitonic kinematics, demonstrating that solitons are released by the fission of incoming infragravity waves at the lagoon entrance. Continuous injection of solitonic wave trains and intense wave-wave interactions enhanced by the shallow and gradually varying bathymetry within the estuary lagoon lead to a quasistationary soliton gas regime with a substantially increased probability of rogue wave occurrence compared with linear wave theory. The Korteweg-de Vries nonlinear Fourier transform reveals that nearly half of the measured signal energy is explained by solitonic modes, confirming the key role that solitons have in enhancing rogue wave emergence in natural coastal settings.