Escaping the spectacle? Young women’s ambivalence to gender aesthetics on Xiaohongshu

This article examines how Xiaohongshu, a fashion- and lifestyle-orientated online social commerce platform with a predominantly female user base (70%), simultaneously challenges and reinforces conventional beauty standards. While users are positioned within the discourse of ‘she power’, the platform’s framing of empowerment remains deeply contradictory. Drawing on six months of online ethnography and in-depth interviews, this article explores how Xiaohongshu constructs and commercialises stylised femininity as a form of spectacle. Analysing aesthetic practices through three dimensions – norms, dual gazes and resistance – the findings reveal that user engagement (e.g. likes, comments, shares) drives algorithmic learning. This process transforms beauty pressures into data, reinforcing platform-defined ideals while promoting ‘relatable’ influencers who mirror everyday users. Such dynamics offer surface-level relief from beauty norms yet deepen entrenchment in consumerist algorithmic culture. The article extends Guy Debord’s theory of the spectacle by demonstrating how platform participation sustains aesthetic standards through interactive visibility. It also contributes to scholarship on gendered platform economies by uncovering the socio-technical mechanisms shaping women’s engagement with digital beauty cultures. As the data primarily reflect urban, youth-orientated experiences, future research should investigate non-urban and cross-platform variations.