A Study on the Formative Characteristics of Somoja-Type Gulle Artifacts

This study examined and compared the small-cap (Somoja)-shaped Gulle artifacts to analyze their formative characteristics specifically. This type of Gulle was typically made by assembling 9 or 11 pieces of cloth into a cap shape. The pieces were secured with thread from the inside to prevent them from separating. The edges of each piece were typically wrapped with black tape, which not only served as decoration but also effectively strengthened the cap's shape. One or three ribbons (Dang-gi) were attached to the back of some Gulle artifacts. The back centerpiece of the Gulle, made of nine pieces, was red, while the remaining pieces of the Gulle alternated between red and black. The back center piece of the Gulle, made of 11 pieces, was also red, but the remaining pieces of the Gulle used different colors. The decoration of the small cap-shaped Gulle is unique in its extensive use of embroidery and colored thread. The Gulle made of 9 pieces is embroidered with patterns of peonies, lotus flowers, and the elixir of immortality. In the case of the Gulle made of 11 pieces, the back center piece is embroidered with the ten symbols of longevity, and the remaining pieces are embroidered with flower and elixir plant patterns. The front pieces of the Gulle use a braid stitch with diagonal lines that intersect continuously. It is very similar to the embroidery technique of the wedding ribbon (Goi-dang-gi) from Pyeong-an Province. Based on this, it is presumed that the small cap-shaped Gulle style was created in the same region. Bokpan, the crown decoration of Gulle, is shaped like seven petals and is decorated with couching stitch using several twisted colored threads. The outlines of the front pieces of Gulle are also decorated with twisted colored threads, and the crown of Bokpan has a big tassel decoration.