Transfer function for adaptive methods of estimating directional spectra using a fully nonlinear wave model and laboratory measurements

Abstract We analyse the spreading distribution of directional wave spectra across different sea states using a 3D fully nonlinear model and measurements from a wave basin. Using the spreading coefficient, we propose a transfer function for adaptive methods such as the Maximum Likelihood Method (MLM), Maximum Entropy Method (MEM), and Wavelet Directional Method (WDM), with the estimated spectra from 2FFT as a baseline. Our numerical analysis reveals that nonlinear effects broaden the directional distribution at peak frequency, particularly in narrow spectra. This broadening becomes more pronounced as wave steepness increases. With the proposed transfer function, we found that MLM tends to overestimate spreading, resulting in spectra that are 14% broader. In contrast, MEM and WDM produced narrower spectra, by 6% and 3% respectively. When analysing the spreading coefficient across relative frequencies, WDM performs best in the range of 0.8 to 1.15 $$f/f_p$$ , while MEM yields superior results at higher relative frequencies, specifically above 1.3 $$f/f_p$$ . We validate the transfer function using laboratory measurements, which effectively capture the behaviour of the adaptive methods within the error limits. Additionally, due to the plane correction transformation, our laboratory analysis using stereo-imaging measurements showed that adaptive methods generally produced a slightly broader spectrum than those based on probe measurements. These findings highlight the importance of carefully selecting methods depending on the desired balance between accuracy and stability in wave spectral analysis.

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Publication Details

Journal
Ocean Dynamics
Published
2025-10-21
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1007/s10236-025-01739-7
Primary Topic
Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
Type
article
Field-Weighted Citation Impact
0.00

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article

Transfer function for adaptive methods of estimating directional spectra using a fully nonlinear wave model and laboratory measurements

Alexander V. Babanin, Sannasi Annamalaisamy Sannasiraj, Zoé Torrès
Ocean Dynamics
Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
article

Transfer function for adaptive methods of estimating directional spectra using a fully nonlinear wave model and laboratory measurements

Alexander V. Babanin, Sannasi Annamalaisamy Sannasiraj, Zoé Torrès
article en

Abstract

Abstract We analyse the spreading distribution of directional wave spectra across different sea states using a 3D fully nonlinear model and measurements from a wave basin. Using the spreading coefficient, we propose a transfer function for adaptive methods such as the Maximum Likelihood Method (MLM), Maximum Entropy Method (MEM), and Wavelet Directional Method (WDM), with the estimated spectra from 2FFT as a baseline. Our numerical analysis reveals that nonlinear effects broaden the directional distribution at peak frequency, particularly in narrow spectra. This broadening becomes more pronounced as wave steepness increases. With the proposed transfer function, we found that MLM tends to overestimate spreading, resulting in spectra that are 14% broader. In contrast, MEM and WDM produced narrower spectra, by 6% and 3% respectively. When analysing the spreading coefficient across relative frequencies, WDM performs best in the range of 0.8 to 1.15 $$f/f_p$$ , while MEM yields superior results at higher relative frequencies, specifically above 1.3 $$f/f_p$$ . We validate the transfer function using laboratory measurements, which effectively capture the behaviour of the adaptive methods within the error limits. Additionally, due to the plane correction transformation, our laboratory analysis using stereo-imaging measurements showed that adaptive methods generally produced a slightly broader spectrum than those based on probe measurements. These findings highlight the importance of carefully selecting methods depending on the desired balance between accuracy and stability in wave spectral analysis.

Ocean DynamicsVol. 75(11)
The University of Melbourne (AU), Indian Institute of Technology Madras (IN), National Institute of Ocean Technology (IN)
University of Melbourne, Indian Institute of Technology Madras
Openalex Percentile: Top 70%
Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
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