Evaluation of industrial crop emollients from perilla oil, cocoa butter, and wild almond butter extracts: Physicochemical characterization, stability, bioactivity, and clinical efficacy of product formulations in a double-blind trial

Perilla frutescens (L.) Britton, Theobroma cacao L., and Irvingia malayana Oliv. ex A.W. Benn. are promising sources of natural emollient-producing crops. The purpose of this study was to explore the potential of perilla oil, cocoa butter, and wild almond butter extracts as alternative emollient sources for use in cosmetic, cosmeceutical, pharmaceutical, and other health-related products. These emollient extracts were assessed for their physicochemical properties, stability, total phenolic and flavonoid contents, as well as their anti-lipid peroxidation and anti-glycation activities. Skincare formulations incorporating perilla oil (in a body moisturizing cream), cocoa butter (in a facial moisturizing gel-cream), and wild almond butter (in a lip balm) were developed and subjected to stability testing. In addition, these products were tested for skin irritation and evaluated for moisturizing efficacy in comparison to currently marketed emollients in 21 human healthy volunteers. The results revealed that the yields of perilla oil, cocoa butter, and wild almond butter were 8.37 %, 5.67 %, and 27.98 %, respectively. Stability testing indicated that higher temperatures (45 ± 2 °C) increased degradation. All extracts contained phenolic and flavonoid compounds. Cocoa butter and wild almond butter extracts demonstrated moderate anti-lipid peroxidation activity, while perilla oil slightly exhibited anti-glycation activity. The skincare formulations were stable, and no signs of severe skin irritation were observed. In addition, they helped reduce transepidermal water loss and significantly improved skin hydration in both perilla and cocoa creams. These findings establish that the emollient extracts can serve as effective alternative emollient-producing crops for use in cosmetic and other health-related products. • Perilla oil, cocoa butter, and wild almond butter are safe for topical skin applications. • Keeping at a low temperature helps maintain the shelf life of natural extract emollients. • Perilla oil and cocoa butter creams significantly enhance skin hydration. • Perilla oil, cocoa butter, and wild almond butter are promising alternative emollient crops.