An integrated theoretical, experimental, and numerical study of small-amplitude water waves

Abstract We introduce an inexpensive experimental setup for analyzing free-surface water waves: a 1 m long tabletop flume made from perspex, driven by a variable-frequency piston wavemaker built from Lego. Using mobile-phone video capture, we collect experimental data and compare it with predictions from linear gravity-capillary wave theory and with multiphase simulations performed in OpenFOAM. We find excellent quantitative agreement across all three approaches. Our setup may be valuable for students with a background in Mathematical Modelling who lack hands-on laboratory experience. To explore this, we report on a survey of students who completed an integrated theoretical, experimental, and computational project. While students found the experience enhanced their learning of Fluid Mechanics, they also noted the need for better support in setting up and running CFD simulations.

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Publication Details

Journal
European Journal of Physics
Published
2025-10-08
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1088/1361-6404/ae10ec
Primary Topic
Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
Type
article
Field-Weighted Citation Impact
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article

An integrated theoretical, experimental, and numerical study of small-amplitude water waves

Lennon Ó Náraigh, Neil P. Young, Nicolas Farault
European Journal of Physics
Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
article

An integrated theoretical, experimental, and numerical study of small-amplitude water waves

Lennon Ó Náraigh, Neil P. Young, Nicolas Farault
article en

Abstract

Abstract We introduce an inexpensive experimental setup for analyzing free-surface water waves: a 1 m long tabletop flume made from perspex, driven by a variable-frequency piston wavemaker built from Lego. Using mobile-phone video capture, we collect experimental data and compare it with predictions from linear gravity-capillary wave theory and with multiphase simulations performed in OpenFOAM. We find excellent quantitative agreement across all three approaches. Our setup may be valuable for students with a background in Mathematical Modelling who lack hands-on laboratory experience. To explore this, we report on a survey of students who completed an integrated theoretical, experimental, and computational project. While students found the experience enhanced their learning of Fluid Mechanics, they also noted the need for better support in setting up and running CFD simulations.

European Journal of PhysicsVol. 46(6)
University College Dublin (IE), Communauté urbaine de Lyon (FR)
Openalex Percentile: Top 72%
Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
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An integrated theoretical, experimental, and numerical study of small-amplitude water waves — Lennon Ó Náraigh, Neil P. Young, et al. · European Journal of Physics (2025) | TGRS Research Map | TGRS