Valorization of Hazelnut (Corylus avellana L.) Skin By-Product as a Multifunctional Ingredient for Cosmetic Emulsions

Roasted hazelnut skins (RHSs), generated as by-products of industrial hazelnut processing, were extracted by pressurized liquid extraction to yield a hydroalcoholic extract (RHS-H). The extract was rich in polyphenols (308.4 ± 4.6 mg GAE/g) and proanthocyanidins (169.3 ± 10 mg CE/g) and showed strong antioxidant activity (DPPH EC<sub>50</sub> = 5.08 ± 1.08 µg/mL; TEAC = 2.82 ± 0.03 mM Trolox/mg) together with antimicrobial effects against <i>Staphylococcus aureus</i> and <i>Staphylococcus epidermidis</i>. RHS-H also enhanced the UV absorbance of synthetic UV filters. When incorporated into oil-in-water (O/W) cosmetic emulsions at low concentrations (0.2-2% <i>w</i>/<i>w</i>), RHS-H did not affect physicochemical stability: formulations maintained acceptable organoleptic properties, dermocompatible pH (4.7-5.5), electrostatic stability (ζ-potential ranging from -57 to -60 mV), and rheological behavior. Functionally, RHS-H increased the antioxidant activity of emulsions (radical scavenging > 80% vs. 52% in the blank), ensured microbial protection in challenge tests, and enhanced SPF by 9.4% at 0.2% <i>w</i>/<i>w</i>, with further improvements at higher concentrations, reaching broad-spectrum photoprotection (critical wavelength > 370 nm). Overall, RHS-H represents a natural multifunctional ingredient with antioxidant, preservative, and photoprotective properties, providing a sustainable strategy to upcycle hazelnut processing waste and reduce reliance on synthetic additives in cosmetic formulations.

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Publication Details

Journal
Antioxidants
Published
2025-10-02
DOI
https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox14101199
Primary Topic
Nuts composition and effects
Type
article
Field-Weighted Citation Impact
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article

Valorization of Hazelnut (Corylus avellana L.) Skin By-Product as a Multifunctional Ingredient for Cosmetic Emulsions

Tiziana Esposito, Luca Rastrelli, Anna Lisa Piccinelli, Martina Pannetta et al.
Antioxidants
Nuts composition and effects
article

Valorization of Hazelnut (Corylus avellana L.) Skin By-Product as a Multifunctional Ingredient for Cosmetic Emulsions

Tiziana Esposito, Luca Rastrelli, Anna Lisa Piccinelli, Martina Pannetta, Teresa Mencherini, Daniela Eletto, Oihana Gordobil, Francesca Sansone, Giulia Auriemma, Rita Patrizia Aquino, Carlo Ferniani
article en

Abstract

Roasted hazelnut skins (RHSs), generated as by-products of industrial hazelnut processing, were extracted by pressurized liquid extraction to yield a hydroalcoholic extract (RHS-H). The extract was rich in polyphenols (308.4 ± 4.6 mg GAE/g) and proanthocyanidins (169.3 ± 10 mg CE/g) and showed strong antioxidant activity (DPPH EC<sub>50</sub> = 5.08 ± 1.08 µg/mL; TEAC = 2.82 ± 0.03 mM Trolox/mg) together with antimicrobial effects against <i>Staphylococcus aureus</i> and <i>Staphylococcus epidermidis</i>. RHS-H also enhanced the UV absorbance of synthetic UV filters. When incorporated into oil-in-water (O/W) cosmetic emulsions at low concentrations (0.2-2% <i>w</i>/<i>w</i>), RHS-H did not affect physicochemical stability: formulations maintained acceptable organoleptic properties, dermocompatible pH (4.7-5.5), electrostatic stability (ζ-potential ranging from -57 to -60 mV), and rheological behavior. Functionally, RHS-H increased the antioxidant activity of emulsions (radical scavenging > 80% vs. 52% in the blank), ensured microbial protection in challenge tests, and enhanced SPF by 9.4% at 0.2% <i>w</i>/<i>w</i>, with further improvements at higher concentrations, reaching broad-spectrum photoprotection (critical wavelength > 370 nm). Overall, RHS-H represents a natural multifunctional ingredient with antioxidant, preservative, and photoprotective properties, providing a sustainable strategy to upcycle hazelnut processing waste and reduce reliance on synthetic additives in cosmetic formulations.

AntioxidantsVol. 14(10)
University of Salerno (IT), University of Sannio (IT), University of the Basque Country (ES), University of Palermo (IT)
European Commission, Agencia Estatal de Investigación
Openalex Percentile: Top 67%
Nuts composition and effects
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