Influence of vertically shearing currents on surface wave spectra

The potential approach has been considered a reliable standard in computing wave directional spectra from instrumental measurements. However, by definition, it neglects ambient shearing currents. We present a proof that this oversight can lead to significant deviations of first-order in wave directional spectra estimates (height and direction), and propose a methodology based on rotational theory. The study demonstrates that shearing currents must not be neglected in wave data processing. A comparison of the rotational and potential approaches using the Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP) dataset reveals notable and consistent differences in wave parameter estimation for $i\phantom{\rule{0}{0ex}}n$ $s\phantom{\rule{0}{0ex}}i\phantom{\rule{0}{0ex}}t\phantom{\rule{0}{0ex}}u$ data.

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Publication Details

Journal
Physical Review Fluids
Published
2025-10-02
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1103/yf6w-j2fp
Primary Topic
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
Type
article
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article

Influence of vertically shearing currents on surface wave spectra

E. Kit, Yaron Toledo, Rotem Soffer
Physical Review Fluids
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
article

Influence of vertically shearing currents on surface wave spectra

E. Kit, Yaron Toledo, Rotem Soffer
article en

Abstract

The potential approach has been considered a reliable standard in computing wave directional spectra from instrumental measurements. However, by definition, it neglects ambient shearing currents. We present a proof that this oversight can lead to significant deviations of first-order in wave directional spectra estimates (height and direction), and propose a methodology based on rotational theory. The study demonstrates that shearing currents must not be neglected in wave data processing. A comparison of the rotational and potential approaches using the Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP) dataset reveals notable and consistent differences in wave parameter estimation for $i\phantom{\rule{0}{0ex}}n$ $s\phantom{\rule{0}{0ex}}i\phantom{\rule{0}{0ex}}t\phantom{\rule{0}{0ex}}u$ data.

Physical Review FluidsVol. 10(10)
Tel Aviv University (IL)
Openalex Percentile: Top 71%
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
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Influence of vertically shearing currents on surface wave spectra — E. Kit, Yaron Toledo, et al. · Physical Review Fluids (2025) | TGRS Research Map | TGRS