Optimized UV protection of cotton fabric using microwave-assisted <i>Vitis vinifera</i> leaf extract: a sustainable approach

Purpose The increasing demand for UV protection, driven by climate change and rising UV levels, has necessitated the development of eco-friendly alternatives to synthetic UV-blocking treatments. This study aims to explore the use of Vitis vinifera (grapevine) leaf extracts for developing a sustainable UV-protective finish for cotton fabric while maintaining its comfort properties. Design/methodology/approach A plant-based UV protection treatment was developed using Vitis vinifera leaf extract. A Box–Behnken experimental design was applied to optimize key process parameters, including extract concentration, microwave power and treatment time. The treated fabrics were evaluated for Ultraviolet Protection Factor and comfort properties to assess their effectiveness. Findings The optimal treatment conditions were determined as 9.38% Vitis vinifera extract concentration, 313 W of microwave power and 7 min of treatment time. The results demonstrated that microwave-assisted application of Vitis vinifera extract significantly enhanced UV protection without compromising fabric comfort. Research limitations/implications The study is limited by the variability of plant extract composition due to seasonal and geographic factors, which may affect reproducibility. While the treatment showed promising wash durability, natural degradation of bio-compounds over extended laundering remains a concern. Industrial scalability and consumer acceptance due to potential color changes are yet to be explored. Future research should focus on optimizing solvent systems, exploring other sustainable crosslinkers and evaluating the long-term performance of treated textiles. Additional functional attributes like antimicrobial properties and commercial-scale trials are recommended to enhance applicability and market readiness. Practical implications The study highlights the practical application of plant-based UV protection in textiles, offering a natural and sustainable alternative to synthetic UV-blocking treatments. The findings contribute to the development of eco-friendly functional textiles, supporting sustainability in the fashion and textile industry. Originality/value This research presents a novel approach to utilizing Vitis vinifera leaf extract as a bio-based UV protective finish, contributing to the shift toward green textile technologies. The study integrates microwave-assisted extraction and finishing, demonstrating an innovative method for sustainable fabric enhancement.