Utilising plant‐derived dyes for designed changeability in textiles

Abstract Natural plant extracts have been used for dyeing textiles since prehistoric times. With the discovery of synthetic dyes in 1856, the consumption of natural dyes declined sharply. However, the current focus on closed‐loop systems, the circular economy and the promotion of sustainable industries aimed at reducing environmental impact (eg, The European Green Deal) has led to a renewed interest in plant‐based dyes, along with an exploration of their applications, advantages and creative potential. In this study, we successfully integrated locally sourced plant‐based dyes (flowers: golden tickseed, marigold, peony; berries: holly‐leaved barberry, five‐leaved ivy; leaves: ivy, birch, strawberry; and husks: English walnut, yellow onion) into screen‐printed patterns. We focused on determining the photochemical and thermal stability of dyed products, complemented by live testing. Two types of commercially available tannins and three types of mordants on eight fabric types were used to investigate the colour gamut and creative possibilities of individual iterations. By applying the “intentional imperfection” design method, which results in dynamic and evolving patterns, the study embraced the inherent variability of natural colourants rather than forcing them into conventional, highly controlled manufacturing processes. The modulation of printing technique, incorporating deliberate imperfections, was explored to develop more stain‐resistant and user‐oriented designs open to subsequent modification through re‐dyeing. This approach enhances the retention of the textile during the active stage of the product lifecycle and demonstrates its potential to contribute positively to the overall sustainability of the product.