Cosmeceuticals for Anti-Aging: Mechanisms, Clinical Evidence, and Regulatory Insights—A Comprehensive Review

Products with biologically active ingredients have emerged as a powerful category within the skincare and anti-aging sectors. Bridging the gap between pharmaceuticals and cosmetics, they offer therapeutic benefits supported by scientific evidence while maintaining the esthetic appeal of traditional skincare. This review aims to provide a comprehensive overview of cosmeceuticals with a particular focus on their anti-aging potential. This review highlights recent advances in cosmeceutical actives. Next-generation retinoids such as hydroxypinacolone retinoate and retinyl retinoate show comparable efficacy to tretinoin with improved tolerability, though current studies are small and short-term. Peptides, including signal, carrier, and neurotransmission-inhibiting peptides, offer multifunctional effects on extracellular matrix remodeling and wrinkle reduction, with supportive but modest clinical evidence enhanced by nanocarrier delivery. Antioxidants, particularly vitamin C and coenzyme Q10, are supported by controlled trials showing improvements in photoprotection, mitochondrial function, and wrinkle depth, though data are limited by sample size and follow-up. Botanical polyphenols are gaining prominence: nanoparticle-encapsulated epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) enhances anti-photoaging activity in preclinical studies; oral microencapsulated curcumin has shown visible benefits in nutricosmetic trials; and bakuchiol, a retinol-like meroterpene, demonstrated comparable efficacy to retinol with superior tolerability. Advances in delivery systems—including nanoemulsions, phospholipid complexes, and encapsulation technologies—improve stability, bioavailability, and skin penetration. In conclusion, retinoids, vitamin C, and AHAs/BHAs remain the most evidence-based actives, whereas newer bioactives and advanced formulations appear promising but require larger, long-term randomized trials to establish their role in dermatologic practice.

Authors

Institutions

Publication Details

Journal
Cosmetics
Published
2025-09-17
DOI
https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050209
Citations
5
Primary Topic
Skin Protection and Aging
Type
article
Field-Weighted Citation Impact
10.02
Controls
|||
ALL TIME
JAN
FEB
MAR
APR
MAY
JUN
JUL
AUG
SEP
OCT
article

Cosmeceuticals for Anti-Aging: Mechanisms, Clinical Evidence, and Regulatory Insights—A Comprehensive Review

Simone Ribero, Valentina Pala, Martina Accorinti, Pietro Quaglino et al.
5 citations
Cosmetics
Skin Protection and Aging
10.02
article

Cosmeceuticals for Anti-Aging: Mechanisms, Clinical Evidence, and Regulatory Insights—A Comprehensive Review

Simone Ribero, Valentina Pala, Martina Accorinti, Pietro Quaglino, François Rosset, Orsola Crespi, Cristina Sarda
article en
5 citations

Abstract

Products with biologically active ingredients have emerged as a powerful category within the skincare and anti-aging sectors. Bridging the gap between pharmaceuticals and cosmetics, they offer therapeutic benefits supported by scientific evidence while maintaining the esthetic appeal of traditional skincare. This review aims to provide a comprehensive overview of cosmeceuticals with a particular focus on their anti-aging potential. This review highlights recent advances in cosmeceutical actives. Next-generation retinoids such as hydroxypinacolone retinoate and retinyl retinoate show comparable efficacy to tretinoin with improved tolerability, though current studies are small and short-term. Peptides, including signal, carrier, and neurotransmission-inhibiting peptides, offer multifunctional effects on extracellular matrix remodeling and wrinkle reduction, with supportive but modest clinical evidence enhanced by nanocarrier delivery. Antioxidants, particularly vitamin C and coenzyme Q10, are supported by controlled trials showing improvements in photoprotection, mitochondrial function, and wrinkle depth, though data are limited by sample size and follow-up. Botanical polyphenols are gaining prominence: nanoparticle-encapsulated epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) enhances anti-photoaging activity in preclinical studies; oral microencapsulated curcumin has shown visible benefits in nutricosmetic trials; and bakuchiol, a retinol-like meroterpene, demonstrated comparable efficacy to retinol with superior tolerability. Advances in delivery systems—including nanoemulsions, phospholipid complexes, and encapsulation technologies—improve stability, bioavailability, and skin penetration. In conclusion, retinoids, vitamin C, and AHAs/BHAs remain the most evidence-based actives, whereas newer bioactives and advanced formulations appear promising but require larger, long-term randomized trials to establish their role in dermatologic practice.

CosmeticsVol. 12(5)
Department of Medical Sciences (BY)
Openalex Percentile: Top 2%
Skin Protection and Aging
10.02
AI Navigator

Ask Laika to Summarize, Analyze, and Connect papers live on the map.

Summarize Papers & Methodologies

Extract key findings, datasets, and comparative methods across publications.

Benchmark Rankings & Visual Analytics

Rank top research institutions, authors, funders, topics, and journals by Field-Weighted Citation Impact (FWCI) and paper volume with instant charts.

Connect Distant Disciplines

Bridge topological clusters on the map to find hidden collaborative intersections.