Exploring the new Chinese style on social media: a constructivist grounded theory approach

Abstract This study explores the construction and ambivalence of cultural identity within the New Chinese Style by analyzing fashion content on Chinese social media platforms RedNote and Bilibili. Utilizing constructivist grounded theory and postcolonial theory, the research examines how users express their cultural identity through New Chinese Style fashion. The findings highlight several key aspects: some creators and users exhibit a skewed understanding of New Chinese Style, resulting in self-orientalism; others seek to reclaim cultural identity by challenging stereotypical portrayals; some advocate for transcending traditional boundaries to promote cultural exchange; while others engage with New Chinese Style as a means of gaining attention and benefits on social media. These insights suggest that New Chinese Style is not merely a fashion trend but reflects ongoing negotiations of Chinese cultural subjectivity, acknowledging both its challenges and efforts to preserve it. Although New Chinese Style may not fully escape self-orientalism, it represents continuous efforts within Chinese fashion to decolonize.