Multidisciplinary Bioanalytical Approach to Assess the Anti-Aging Properties of Flower Petals—A Promising Sustainable Cosmetic Ingredient

The increasing demand for natural, safe, and sustainable ingredients is driving innovation in cosmetic science. This study assessed the anti-aging potential of 17 petal extracts using a multidisciplinary bioanalytical approach. In vitro spectrophotometric assays evaluated anti-wrinkle (anti-elastase), anti-pigmentation (anti-tyrosinase), and antioxidant (DPPH, ABTS) activities, while cytotoxicity was tested on HaCaT keratinocytes. Chemical profiling using HPTLC and UHPLC-MS/MS identified 17 phenolic compounds. For the first time, petals from prairie rose (<i>Rosa setigera Michx.</i>), common peony (<i>Paeonia officinalis</i> L.), horse-chestnut cultivars (<i>Aesculus hippocastanum</i> L., <i>Aesculus × carnea Zeyx.</i>), lilac (<i>Syringa vulgaris</i>), mock-orange (<i>Philadelphus pubescens Loisel</i>), orange lily (<i>Lilium bulbiferum</i> L.), garden tulip (<i>Tulipa gesneriana</i> L.), ivy geranium (<i>Pelargonium × peltatum</i> (L.) <i>L'Hér. ex Aiton</i>), and wallflower (<i>Erysimum × cheiri (L.) Crantz</i>) were studied for their skin anti-aging properties. Prairie rose, peony, and ivy geranium extracts showed strong anti-elastase activity; rose and peony also demonstrated high antioxidant potential, while lilac exhibited significant anti-tyrosinase effects. Key phenolic constituents-caffeic acid, <i>p</i>-coumaric acid, and gallic acid-were further examined via molecular docking, which confirmed their inhibitory properties by revealing inhibition mechanisms. All extracts were confirmed to be non-toxic in zebrafish acute toxicity assays at relevant concentrations. This integrative strategy effectively links chemical composition with biological activity, offering valuable insight into the development of safe, plant-derived anti-aging agents for sustainable cosmetic applications.

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Publication Details

Journal
Plants
Published
2025-09-15
DOI
https://doi.org/10.3390/plants14182869
Primary Topic
Medicinal Plants and Neuroprotection
Type
article
Field-Weighted Citation Impact
0.00

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article

Multidisciplinary Bioanalytical Approach to Assess the Anti-Aging Properties of Flower Petals—A Promising Sustainable Cosmetic Ingredient

Petar M. Ristivojević, Đurđa Ivković, Maja Krstić Ristivojević, Milan Senćanski et al.
Plants
Medicinal Plants and Neuroprotection
article

Multidisciplinary Bioanalytical Approach to Assess the Anti-Aging Properties of Flower Petals—A Promising Sustainable Cosmetic Ingredient

Petar M. Ristivojević, Đurđa Ivković, Maja Krstić Ristivojević, Milan Senćanski, Mirjana Novković, Jelena Stojković‐Filipović, Jelena Trifković
article en

Abstract

The increasing demand for natural, safe, and sustainable ingredients is driving innovation in cosmetic science. This study assessed the anti-aging potential of 17 petal extracts using a multidisciplinary bioanalytical approach. In vitro spectrophotometric assays evaluated anti-wrinkle (anti-elastase), anti-pigmentation (anti-tyrosinase), and antioxidant (DPPH, ABTS) activities, while cytotoxicity was tested on HaCaT keratinocytes. Chemical profiling using HPTLC and UHPLC-MS/MS identified 17 phenolic compounds. For the first time, petals from prairie rose (<i>Rosa setigera Michx.</i>), common peony (<i>Paeonia officinalis</i> L.), horse-chestnut cultivars (<i>Aesculus hippocastanum</i> L., <i>Aesculus × carnea Zeyx.</i>), lilac (<i>Syringa vulgaris</i>), mock-orange (<i>Philadelphus pubescens Loisel</i>), orange lily (<i>Lilium bulbiferum</i> L.), garden tulip (<i>Tulipa gesneriana</i> L.), ivy geranium (<i>Pelargonium × peltatum</i> (L.) <i>L'Hér. ex Aiton</i>), and wallflower (<i>Erysimum × cheiri (L.) Crantz</i>) were studied for their skin anti-aging properties. Prairie rose, peony, and ivy geranium extracts showed strong anti-elastase activity; rose and peony also demonstrated high antioxidant potential, while lilac exhibited significant anti-tyrosinase effects. Key phenolic constituents-caffeic acid, <i>p</i>-coumaric acid, and gallic acid-were further examined via molecular docking, which confirmed their inhibitory properties by revealing inhibition mechanisms. All extracts were confirmed to be non-toxic in zebrafish acute toxicity assays at relevant concentrations. This integrative strategy effectively links chemical composition with biological activity, offering valuable insight into the development of safe, plant-derived anti-aging agents for sustainable cosmetic applications.

PlantsVol. 14(18)
University of Belgrade (RS), Institute of Molecular Genetics (RU), Institute of General and Physical Chemistry (RS)
Science Fund of the Republic of Serbia
Openalex Percentile: Top 62%
Medicinal Plants and Neuroprotection
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