Jewellery and Garments for the Afterlife: A Case Study of Elite Burial at the Wielbark Culture Cemetery, Leźno, Kartuzy County, Poland

Abstract The excavation of Site 33 in Leźno, Kartuzy County, uncovered an extraordinary Wielbark culture cemetery, dated back to the C2–C3 phases of the Roman Period (ca. 260/270–360/370 AD). The most notable finding was grave No. 179, which stood out not only due to its impressive dimensions but also due to the quality and quantity of objects in the grave, including two highly ornamented and elaborate fibulae and a necklace made of amber and glass beads. As the fragments of textiles appeared to be well preserved within the fibulae, they were submitted for specialized analysis before any conservation measures were implemented. These analyses allowed for an extended technological and qualitative diagnosis with the use of optical and digital microscopy as well as SEM scanning microscopy. It was determined that the garment of the deceased contained two kinds of woollen fabrics, one being woven in a 2/2 twill and the other in tabby weave. Also, one of the fabrics retained a side edge made on a tablet loom. According to the findings, it can be inferred that the funerary attire consisted of two layers of clothing: a fine shirt/tunic on the inside and the outer layer in the form of a dress or peplos. The whole outfit was adorned with the pieces of jewellery: three fibulae, a necklace, and a pin. As there were no skeletal remains other than the teeth in the grave, the osteological analysis could not have determined the gender of the deceased. However, in the cultural context of the grave goods, it can be argued that the richness of the clothing as well as the sophisticated jewellery indicate that the deceased was presumably an upper-class woman. In conclusion, grave No. 179, along with others from the Leźno cemetery, contributes to the understanding of burial practices, material artefacts, and social structure of the Gothic community, while emphasizing the role of the Wielbark culture in the cultural interactions between Barbaricum and the Roman Empire.