Formulation and Evaluation of Vitamin C Peel-off Masks Using Different Skin Penetration Enhancers

Vitamin C is widely used as antioxidant in various cosmetic products; however, its effectiveness is limited by poor skin permeability. Aloe vera, vitamin E, Tween-20, and Tween-80 have been reported as skin penetration enhancers (SPEs). Nevertheless, their effectiveness as vitamin C enhancers has not been extensively studied. This study aimed to compare the effectiveness of the aforementioned SPEs in enhancing the permeation of vitamin C in peel-off mask formulations using Franz diffusion method. Several peel-off mask formulations containing vitamin C and different SPEs at concentrations of 0.5% and 2% were prepared and evaluated for their characteristics, stability, and vitamin C permeation using porcine ear skin. All formulations exhibited a pH range of 4.19 - 4.33, a viscosity range of 18802 - 113094 cps, and a drying time of approximately 18 minutes. After 45 days of storage at 4 ◦C, room temperature and 44 ◦C, vitamin C concentrations and viscosity values generally decreased, while pH remained relatively stable. All formulations demonstrated higher permeation compared to the control group, with the greatest permeation-enhancing effect observed in the 2% vitamin E formulation (Jss = 21.06 ± 2.17 µg/cm2/min; Kp = 5 ± 0.51 x 10-4 cm/min; ER = 1.749). This in vitro study concludes that 2% vitamin E was the most effective SPE for enhancing vitamin C permeation in peel-off mask formulations.