Fully nonlinear simulations of rogue wave formation in finite-depth irregular waves

Numerical studies on the statistical properties of irregular waves in finite depth have to date been based on models founded on weak nonlinearity; as a consequence, only lower-order (usually third-order) nonlinear interactions have thus far been investigated. The present study performs numerical simulations with a fully nonlinear, spectrally accurate model to investigate the statistics of irregular, unidirectional wave fields in finite water depth initially given by a Texel, Marsen and Arsloe spectrum. A series of random unidirectional wave fields are considered, covering a wide range of water depth. The wave spectrum and statistical properties, including the probability density function of the surface elevation, exceedance probability of wave crests and occurrence probability of extreme (rogue) waves, are investigated. The importance of full nonlinearity in comparison with third-order results is likewise evaluated. The results show that full nonlinearity increases kurtosis and enhances the occurrence probability of large wave crests and rogue waves substantially, in both deep water and finite water depth. Therefore, we propose that full nonlinearity may contribute significantly to the formation of rogue waves. Furthermore, to account for the effects of higher-order nonlinearity on modulational instability, we analyse the relationship between the Benjamin–Feir index (BFI) and maximal excess kurtosis. Our results show a strong linear relationship i.e. $({\mathcal{K}}_{max}-3)\propto {\textrm{BFI}}$ , in contrast to $({\mathcal{K}}_{max}-3)\propto {\textrm{BFI}}^2$ based on the assumptions of weak nonlinearity, a narrow-banded spectrum and deep-water conditions. Above, $\mathcal{K}_{max}$ is the maximal kurtosis.