The effect of induced flow on the water wave skewness

Nonlinear wave-induced perturbations are discussed within the framework of the second-order theory. Due to the slow attenuation of the long perturbations with depth, they modulate motions beneath surface waves down to the bottom and can strongly affect the wave statistics. The disturbance which corresponds to the second harmonic, at a sufficient depth, inverses the phase, thereby qualitatively changing the shape of individual waves. The skewness coefficients of the surface displacement and the bottom pressure fluctuations are considered. It is shown that the bottom pressure skewness may have different signs and magnitudes depending on the water depth and the configuration of nonlinear wave groups that compose the wave field. The effect on the surface displacement skewness is much weaker. Mechanisms leading to strong deviation of the skewness coefficient from the nonlinear Stokes wave theory are discussed.

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Publication Details

Journal
Physics of Fluids
Published
2025-08-01
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1063/5.0285527
Citations
1
Primary Topic
Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
Type
article
Field-Weighted Citation Impact
1.79

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article

The effect of induced flow on the water wave skewness

Alexey Slunyaev, Anna Kokorina
1 citations
Physics of Fluids
Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
1.79
article

The effect of induced flow on the water wave skewness

Alexey Slunyaev, Anna Kokorina
article en
1 citations

Abstract

Nonlinear wave-induced perturbations are discussed within the framework of the second-order theory. Due to the slow attenuation of the long perturbations with depth, they modulate motions beneath surface waves down to the bottom and can strongly affect the wave statistics. The disturbance which corresponds to the second harmonic, at a sufficient depth, inverses the phase, thereby qualitatively changing the shape of individual waves. The skewness coefficients of the surface displacement and the bottom pressure fluctuations are considered. It is shown that the bottom pressure skewness may have different signs and magnitudes depending on the water depth and the configuration of nonlinear wave groups that compose the wave field. The effect on the surface displacement skewness is much weaker. Mechanisms leading to strong deviation of the skewness coefficient from the nonlinear Stokes wave theory are discussed.

Physics of FluidsVol. 37(8)
National Research University Higher School of Economics (RU), Institute of Applied Physics (RU)
Russian Science Foundation
Openalex Percentile: Top 14%
Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
1.79
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The effect of induced flow on the water wave skewness — Alexey Slunyaev, Anna Kokorina · Physics of Fluids (2025) | TGRS Research Map | TGRS