Hydrodynamic and Climatic Effects on an Amazon Beach Under Unplanned Occupation: A Case Study

This study aimed to evaluate how tidal modulation influences breaking waves on a macrotidal beach along the Amazonian coast under varying climatic conditions. The study utilized medium-term data (2006–2018) from national and international institutions and short-term data (2012–2014) from in situ measurements at Ajuruteua Beach. Offshore winds and waves, predominantly from the northeast, were influenced by severe storms associated with La Niña and El Niño events. During these periods, wave heights exceeded 5 m, with wave periods ranging from 12 to 20 s. Tidal fluctuations (typically 5.0–6.0 m) modulated nearshore wave heights and periods, with variations determined by offshore conditions and climatic influences. Wave heights decreased from 2–5 m offshore to 1–2 m nearshore. At low tide, sandbanks dissipated wave energy, resulting in significantly smaller breaking waves (0.1–0.5 m) compared with high tide (1–1.8 m). The northern part of Ajuruteua Beach experienced a progressive retreat, with a total area loss of 0.15 km2 and a shoreline retreat of 0.360 km between 2007 and 2021. The combination of high hydrodynamic energy and unregulated development led to the destruction of 43 buildings between 2007 and 2013 and an additional 44 houses between 2013 and 2021 within the intertidal zone. Moreover, the absence of coastal management strategies has exacerbated erosion, underscoring the urgent need for planning and regulatory frameworks. Based on the findings of this study, it is recommended that land use be regulated and both short- and long-term physical processes be systematically integrated into future coastal protection planning.