Ukrainian Ornaments in Olha Kosach’s Research: Scientific Promotion of Ukrainian Identity in European Editions

The article is devoted to the presence of reviews in European printed editions on the study by O. Kosach “Ukrainian Folk Ornamentation”, published in 1876 in Russian in Kyiv. The work has consisted of a text and 31 tables with patterns of embroidery, woven products and pysanky (Easter eggs), and several images of beaded products are also presented. This work has been published in French in 1877. The use of terms related to ornamentation in Russian and French-language texts is considered in the study. The authoress uses the definition “Little Russian ornamentation” seven times in the first edition, while in the French-language version only once, and in the other six cases she calls the ornamentation Ukrainian. The purpose of the article is to outline the means of translating Ukrainian identity in O. Kosach’s research on the specifics of the folk embroidery tradition. Several reviews on her research have been read, in particular, by the French scholar A. Rambaud and the German theologian F. Schneider. The appendix to the article contains the French-language text of Olena Pchilka’s article on Ukrainian ornamentation, which she has published in the Parisian journal “Chronicle of Nationalities” in 1913, no. 3–4. The translation into Ukrainian is prepared by Z. Borysiuk specifically for M. Oliynyk’s article “Studies of Ukrainian Ornamentation by Olha Kosach: Scientific and Intercultural Sections of the Source Base” (Folk Art and Ethnology, 2021, no. 4). New information about the popularity of the edition about Ukrainian, primarily embroidery ornamentation abroad is submitted in the study. Evidence has been found that the publisher of the popular German fashion magazine “Bazar” was looking for an opportunity to purchase the French-language publication of O. Kosach “Ukrainian Folk Ornament” of 1877 edition.