Cudbear and the Colours of the Atlantic Rainforest

The temperate rainforests and their associated coastline in Scotland have long been home to dye-producing plants including lichens, some commercialised and patented by George and Cuthbert Gordon in 1758 as the dye Cudbear. Using merchant records and family correspondence, this paper will shed new light on the early trade and manufacture of Cudbear and also Cuthbert Gordon’s later investigations into other colour-producing plants undertaken as chemistry and botany emerged as fields of economic opportunity and study in the 18th century. It appears that Cudbear was used for longer and more widely than has previously been supposed and was integrated into known dye practices and used later with synthetic dyes. A rare pattern book of dyed wool flannel samples, held at the Royal Botanic Garden of Edinburgh, shows a re-evaluation of indigenous dye plants, especially lichens, in a time of national emergency in 1916. The result of a government initiative during WW1 and produced under laboratory conditions at the University of Glasgow, it is used here to identify some of the colours studied by Cuthbert Gordon of which we have little contemporary record.