HX05 A flaming history of red hair

Abstract Red hair colour in humans is caused by specific loss-of-function mutations in the melanocortin-1 receptor (MC1R), leading to increased phaeomelanin and decreased eumelanin pigment in skin and hair. The connection between nonsynonymous polymorphisms in the MC1R-encoding gene and hair colour was first described by Valverde et al. in 1995, but the tumultuous history of red hair long predates this (Valverde P, Healy E, Jackson I et al. Variants of the melanocyte-stimulating hormone receptor gene are associated with red hair and fair skin in humans. Nat Genet 1995; 11: 328–30). In this pioneering 1995 study, the majority of people with red hair in a Celtic British population were found to be homozygous or compound heterozygous for loss-of-function mutations in MC1R. Alongside hair colour, those with homozygous loss-of-function MC1R mutations have a lower skin phototype than those with the wildtype MC1R sequence, and heterozygotes are intermediate. These differences show a dosage effect and explain why lighter skin and fiery red hair often go hand in hand. It is unclear when the first redhead emerged, with genetic studies demonstrating MC1R variations up to 100 000 years ago. It is believed that the gene was selected against in Africa due to high levels of ultraviolet radiation, but emerged in Northern Europe, as the presence of dark skin with low ambient ultraviolet radiation and a diet poor in vitamin D would lead to rickets. Red hair is often linked to the Celts and the Vikings, with origins in Scandinavian countries as well as Ireland and Scotland. In Ancient Egypt, red hair was perceived as a godly trait, the hair colour of one of the most powerful pharaohs: Ramesses II. This may have been artificial, as Egyptians often used natural dyes like indigo and turmeric to achieve lighter hair colours. In Ancient Rome, the red hair of Northern captives was admired and imitated by Roman women using mineral washes of alum, wood ash and quicklime. Red hair was considered a rare and beautiful trait throughout history. However, it was linked with suspicions of witchcraft and was a cause for persecution in medieval times as it became associated with the rejection of Jesus, with Judas Iscariot commonly depicted as red haired in European artworks. The arrival of one of the most prominent red-haired historical figures changed the tide; Queen Elizabeth I took reign in 1558, prompting a trend of dyed red hair in the Elizabethan era. However, discrimination towards individuals with red hair continued for centuries, and some may argue still exists today, summarized and lamented by Walker in 1659 as ‘the vilifying of red-hair’d men’.

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Journal
British Journal of Dermatology
Published
2025-06-27
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1093/bjd/ljaf085.468
Primary Topic
Dyeing and Modifying Textile Fibers
Type
article
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article

HX05 A flaming history of red hair

Claudine Howard‐James
British Journal of Dermatology
Dyeing and Modifying Textile Fibers
article

HX05 A flaming history of red hair

Claudine Howard‐James
article en

Abstract

Abstract Red hair colour in humans is caused by specific loss-of-function mutations in the melanocortin-1 receptor (MC1R), leading to increased phaeomelanin and decreased eumelanin pigment in skin and hair. The connection between nonsynonymous polymorphisms in the MC1R-encoding gene and hair colour was first described by Valverde et al. in 1995, but the tumultuous history of red hair long predates this (Valverde P, Healy E, Jackson I et al. Variants of the melanocyte-stimulating hormone receptor gene are associated with red hair and fair skin in humans. Nat Genet 1995; 11: 328–30). In this pioneering 1995 study, the majority of people with red hair in a Celtic British population were found to be homozygous or compound heterozygous for loss-of-function mutations in MC1R. Alongside hair colour, those with homozygous loss-of-function MC1R mutations have a lower skin phototype than those with the wildtype MC1R sequence, and heterozygotes are intermediate. These differences show a dosage effect and explain why lighter skin and fiery red hair often go hand in hand. It is unclear when the first redhead emerged, with genetic studies demonstrating MC1R variations up to 100 000 years ago. It is believed that the gene was selected against in Africa due to high levels of ultraviolet radiation, but emerged in Northern Europe, as the presence of dark skin with low ambient ultraviolet radiation and a diet poor in vitamin D would lead to rickets. Red hair is often linked to the Celts and the Vikings, with origins in Scandinavian countries as well as Ireland and Scotland. In Ancient Egypt, red hair was perceived as a godly trait, the hair colour of one of the most powerful pharaohs: Ramesses II. This may have been artificial, as Egyptians often used natural dyes like indigo and turmeric to achieve lighter hair colours. In Ancient Rome, the red hair of Northern captives was admired and imitated by Roman women using mineral washes of alum, wood ash and quicklime. Red hair was considered a rare and beautiful trait throughout history. However, it was linked with suspicions of witchcraft and was a cause for persecution in medieval times as it became associated with the rejection of Jesus, with Judas Iscariot commonly depicted as red haired in European artworks. The arrival of one of the most prominent red-haired historical figures changed the tide; Queen Elizabeth I took reign in 1558, prompting a trend of dyed red hair in the Elizabethan era. However, discrimination towards individuals with red hair continued for centuries, and some may argue still exists today, summarized and lamented by Walker in 1659 as ‘the vilifying of red-hair’d men’.

British Journal of DermatologyVol. 193(Supplement_1)
Tallaght University Hospital (IE)
Openalex Percentile: Top 84%
Dyeing and Modifying Textile Fibers
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