HX30 Coco Chanel: the inspiration for a bronze age?

Abstract Historically, the practice of altering one’s complexion so that it appears lighter in colour has been shown to date back to ancient times. Ancient Greek, Roman and Egyptian women employed methods such as natron, or white-lead-based whitening blushes, to accentuate their pale beauty and femininity. Other methods included honey mixed with olive oil, or milk baths. Fast forward to more modern times, and in the 16th century, women were still trialling different preparations to achieve a paler appearance. Pale skin was synonymous with wealth and high social standing, as the assumption was that one could only be tanned if subjected to hard labour outdoors. These lead-based treatments were often highly toxic and had devastating consequences, with many users dying because of trialling these regimens. Centuries later, the desire for paler skin persisted, and new options such as arsenic wafers became popular. Sadly, many advocates of this treatment became addicted to the arsenic, and it was a widely abused agent. All of this was to change in 1923, when Coco Chanel stepped off a boat in Cannes, having been sunburnt while at sea. Her sunburn quickly developed into a tanned appearance, and suddenly the zeitgeist for the remainder of the 1900s was to have a ‘bronzed glow’. Once again, the colour of one’s skin was deemed to be representative of one’s status, as it was assumed that if someone had a tan, they must have holidayed overseas recently, or they played elite sports such as tennis. In Britain and Ireland, where such sun exposure was limited by the climate, people adopted practices such as Bovril applications to their legs, before fake tans were available on the market. In the 21st century, this desire for a tanned appearance has continued, with many people continuing to harmfully expose themselves to ultraviolet radiation in the name of a tan, despite the risk of developing a skin cancer. As governments and medical authorities aim to ban sunbeds and educate patients about skin cancer risks, one can only hope that the pendulum will swing once more, and that pale will once more be ‘the height of fashion’ in those with white skin.